I'll been interacting with some of the folks on the Battleship Board and mentioned that I'm just starting my 2nd 1/350th, Tamiya Missouri. I built the first one, 26 years ago, before the age of Photoetched accessories. I painted it in the Measure 22 scheme that was used late in WWII and what was in effect at the time of the Japanese Surrender on her decks. I also built the Tamiya New Jersey (also out of the box), and a super-detailed Tamiya USS Enterprise with Gold Medal Models early Photoetched accessorries. Here's a picture of the first Missoui and the Enterprise. Please forgive the condition of the Missouri. It's been through a flood and has been well played with by two little boys. But you can see the color scheme.
Now, I'm semi-retired, have two grandchildren who love model building, and decided to build another one, but this time really do it right. This thread will last for a number of weeks, but I will discribe and show every stage of the process and discuss every decision. I will even ask for help periodically.
I've been doing lots of reseach on this boat. I've visited the Battleship New Jersey, BB62 three times, and the USS Alabama once. I've owned the Robert Sumarall book for years and have almost memorized it. And lately, I've found wonderful pictures and information on the Internet including the entire operation and maintenance manual for the 16" turret and those fabulous guns. I even got a picture of the properllor strut with one of our World Affairs Board folks standing on this massive structure.
The model is going to have Eduard's advanced photoetched set which includes almost everything you'd want except for the tiny little ammo storage ring that surround the inside of the 40 MM gun tubs. So I received them from Alliance Models, and they are microscopic. I've obtained BVM turned brass 16" guns, and am going to use ScaleDecks' laser-cut, teak Iowa Class decks. This is a paper thin, real wood product.
For this reason, I'm going to model the Mo as it appeared just after returning to Pearl Harbor after the Surrender. At that time the ship was still painted Navy blue on the hull below the sheer line and haze gray on all vertical surfaces above. It also had deck blue decks for the metal decks, but the teak decks had been holy-stoned on the way to Pearl so they would be natural teak. With the real teak decks I'm going to use, it will look very special. Since I've reached my five picture limit for this entry. I'll stop now and start a new post with some pictures of the new ship.
Now, I'm semi-retired, have two grandchildren who love model building, and decided to build another one, but this time really do it right. This thread will last for a number of weeks, but I will discribe and show every stage of the process and discuss every decision. I will even ask for help periodically.
I've been doing lots of reseach on this boat. I've visited the Battleship New Jersey, BB62 three times, and the USS Alabama once. I've owned the Robert Sumarall book for years and have almost memorized it. And lately, I've found wonderful pictures and information on the Internet including the entire operation and maintenance manual for the 16" turret and those fabulous guns. I even got a picture of the properllor strut with one of our World Affairs Board folks standing on this massive structure.
The model is going to have Eduard's advanced photoetched set which includes almost everything you'd want except for the tiny little ammo storage ring that surround the inside of the 40 MM gun tubs. So I received them from Alliance Models, and they are microscopic. I've obtained BVM turned brass 16" guns, and am going to use ScaleDecks' laser-cut, teak Iowa Class decks. This is a paper thin, real wood product.
For this reason, I'm going to model the Mo as it appeared just after returning to Pearl Harbor after the Surrender. At that time the ship was still painted Navy blue on the hull below the sheer line and haze gray on all vertical surfaces above. It also had deck blue decks for the metal decks, but the teak decks had been holy-stoned on the way to Pearl so they would be natural teak. With the real teak decks I'm going to use, it will look very special. Since I've reached my five picture limit for this entry. I'll stop now and start a new post with some pictures of the new ship.
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