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Building a Tamiya Missouri with Super-detailing

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  • Antenna Towers cont.

    Before I made the towers, I had to remove the kit nubs. I had already drilled a tiny hole in some of them to accept the stretched sprue. I was using some 0.042" styrene rod which exactly matched the diameter of the vertical antenna towers modeled in the aft of the superstructure. I drilled out the six locations for the towers in the gallery. I tried not to drill completely through so there was a "bottom" to seat the tower on when gluing.



    I drilled a #75 hole in the end of the styrene rod and rounded it slightly. Then I took the thin styrene strip and drilled a #55 drill (0.042") hole and cut the triangular piece with an Xacto knife with part of the hole forming the base of the triangle. This gave me a curved surface that was the same radius as the styrene rod making gluing much stronger.

    With the same styrene strip I made little, tiny right triangles that form the gusset. A very small amount of liquid plastic cement held it together. I made six of them.



    To make painting easier, I drilled a piece of wood with the #55 so I could paint the tops and still leave the bottom bare for gluing. All of you must know that plastic cement only works on bare, not painted, surfaces.

    Here's a brace of antenna towers waiting to dry and installation.



    And here they are installed in the gallery. I'm still not completely sure about how I'll attach the stretched sprue, but I'm sure something will pop up. In real life there's a big, fat insulation that's tied to the bracket with some clevis and turnbuckles, the actual lead jumps around it to go into the bushing. I've thought about using a wound guitar string for the insulator, but am not sure how it will lie being much heavier and more dense than the stretched styrene. It might be possible to use a wound D string which isn't very large and CA it directly to the bracket, and then glue the sprue to it.



    Lastly, since the aft towers were the same diameter, I used the same method to make a bracket for them. I started by carefully scraping the paint off from the gluing area, and using the styrene parts to fabricate the brackets.



    Next time I paint this little detail, and then onto rigging. Looking at the drawings, photos of prototype and larger scale models, there are five horizontal antenna wires, and six vertical lines tying to them. Two verticals tie to one of the horizontals. There are then two additional horizontals that run the distance and then go further back to the rear towers. The real challenge will be the flag halyards since there are many of them.
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    • Builder, I didnt want you to think I forgot. The underside of the bridge (both) are clear of lighting as these pictures will show. There is one white light on the Signal/Admirals Bridge. It would be my guess that when in service this light would have been red but now white. The rest of the lighting in this are are red for refueling at night and more then likely underway replentishment. The last rack of lighting (white, red, greenish/blue) is for visual reference as to her condition in reserve and are located 3/4's aft. The White and Blue/Green indicate that she has electrical power aboard and all alarms are stable. The red would come on if any flooding was detected and the horn underneath the lower white light would sound. It does have a black background. It is my guess that if these are not it then perhaps they were removed during refits throughout the years. The one white (probably red in service) light on the signal bridge though has been there for a pretty long time judging by the fixture.
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      Last edited by Dreadnought; 06 Mar 12,, 06:33.
      Fortitude.....The strength to persist...The courage to endure.

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      • In the fog;)
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        Fortitude.....The strength to persist...The courage to endure.

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        • One for good measure.
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          Fortitude.....The strength to persist...The courage to endure.

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          • Thanks... I didn't see any running lights on the side of the bridge... were they moved since WWII?

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            • That's a nice shot of the Ben Franklin Bridge at night too! Just a little update: Started to rig using stretched sprue and I am entirely NOT satisfied with the results so far. I am reconsidering using fly-tying line which may behave better. Ergo no pictures yet.

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              • Originally posted by Builder 2010 View Post
                Thanks... I didn't see any running lights on the side of the bridge... were they moved since WWII?
                If I had to take a guess I would say yes. Especially with the advent of the missle age. The only other lights that I know of are atop the main mast, forward anchor windlass and on the very stern. The others on the outter hull are for helo ops amd some others that are post mounted luminares that were probably added later in their careers. But IMO, these wouldnt be considered running lights. Just the mast top and the stern.
                Fortitude.....The strength to persist...The courage to endure.

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                • The USS Montana BB67 Model in the Admirals quarters aboard the New Jersey. Its a real remote control model. Look closely at the bridge and then down on the main deck. You can see the power switch. Brass shafts and screws as well. Though you might like it.
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                  Fortitude.....The strength to persist...The courage to endure.

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                  • Thanks Dan. Hey... I thought the New Jersey's policy was "no models that weren't in operation with the Big J". Not only didn't the Montana do anything with the New Jersey, it was even finished. Oh well. It would be sooooo much easier for me to get the model to Philly than Honolulu.

                    I do like it. I am installing metal (steel) prop shafts too. I will color them white which seems to be their real color (white lead?). At least that's how it looked on the picture that Rusty had posted many months ago. I am still at a loss for brass props. The plastic ones might have to suffice. There are brass North Carolina props available, but none for the Iowa. I find that perplexing since there are so many PE sets available for it.

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                    • Originally posted by Builder 2010 View Post
                      Thanks... I didn't see any running lights on the side of the bridge... were they moved since WWII?
                      I have been looking at various side pics. And cannot find them on the Jersey.

                      She has to have them, and I think I may have found where they were. But the
                      area isn't colored.

                      Until Rusty comes around,here is my guess.
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                      • Running Lights

                        Before I started building the lights I spent time ripping out ALL of the stretched sprue rigging, and cleaning the glue that was befouling the yard arms. I'm going to use E-Z Line. It's an elastic thread that comes in two sizes and several colors including "charcoal" and "rope". It stretches! If you bump into it it gives and doesn't go slack. It also comes in 0.003" diameter which is actually a couple of 'thou' thinner than the stretched sprue I created. The sprue looked awful. It wasn't tightening properly with heat. It had varying diameters due to my stretching technique which was so hot. And it just didn't add to the beauty of the model.

                        I've ordered the E-Z Line and will document its install when it arrives.

                        Now onto the running lights. It's obvious from the pictures that you guys posted that the current rendition of the Iowas doesn't have the traditional running lights, but the WWII version did.

                        My attempt is not as elegant as the prototype, but it should work.

                        I made them out of styrene and filed a round piece so it was a 1/4 round so it nestled into the corner between the side and back boards.

                        I painted the lamp chrome silver, and then when dry, used Tamiya clear green and red enamels for the Port and Starboard units. The first picture is after the color was applied and the second is after painting the boards flat black.





                        Tomorrow, I may give the colors another coat since they're a little skimpy.

                        I also am still trying to find brass props, but meanwhile I decided to test two different brass paints. The first was from Vallejo, an Italian model paint manufacturer, and the other was a "gold leaf" craft paint I picked up at Michael's. The Vallejo laid down much smoother and dried quickly. The other, while I actually like the color better to depict bronze, was much grainier and dried lumpy. It seems that it's not formulated for miniature work.



                        I'm going to remove the second trial (the one on the left) and repaint all of them with the Vallejo.

                        Another note on Vallejo. I used their white paint that is pre-mixed for airbrushing to paint a plane my younger grandson is building. It is an odorless, acrylic, water-based paint, but it seems to clog my airbrush quickly. It also seems to take a long time to cure. It sets up quickly, but after 24 hours still felt tacky. My favorite model paint is Tamiya. It is alcohol based, non-toxic, cleans up with water, but isopropyl alcohol is best. And it airbrushes great. It will dry on the airbrush tip, but doesn't clog the gun and sprays smoothly. Between the earthquake and a labeling requirement, it's been tough to get Tamiya paint, but I understand that they're now shipping. Their "rattle-can" sprays are also very nice.

                        If you're going to use Tamiya, save yourselves a lot of money and don't buy their thinner, which is basically alcohol in a tiny bottle for $4. Instead, go to the drug store and by 91% Rubbing Alcohol for a couple of bucks a pint. It also smells nice.
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                        • I know Rusty said that the sidelight shield/bracket are black, but I think that is a post war paint scheme.

                          Looking at the Floating Drydock book, specifically pg 105-107, the sidelights are painted the same color as the bulkhead.

                          Also the brackets should have a 112.5deg angle vice 90 deg. That is the arc of visibility required of sidelights by International maritime rules.

                          Something that I learned about using stretched sprue for rigging. Only Jim Baumann does it well.

                          I cannot wait to see the final result.
                          Last edited by Gun Grape; 08 Mar 12,, 04:08.

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                          • Originally posted by Builder 2010 View Post
                            Thanks Dan. Hey... I thought the New Jersey's policy was "no models that weren't in operation with the Big J". Not only didn't the Montana do anything with the New Jersey, it was even finished. Oh well. It would be sooooo much easier for me to get the model to Philly than Honolulu.

                            I do like it. I am installing metal (steel) prop shafts too. I will color them white which seems to be their real color (white lead?). At least that's how it looked on the picture that Rusty had posted many months ago. I am still at a loss for brass props. The plastic ones might have to suffice. There are brass North Carolina props available, but none for the Iowa. I find that perplexing since there are so many PE sets available for it.
                            Builder, I, IMO, think what was trying to be related is that we already have a model of Iowa in the museums and a few of the New Jersey herself aboard. Perhaps what was meant to be related is that she deserves to be aboard Mo. And from what it sounds you have earned your model a very nice place for it to be viewed aka the Captains In Port stateroom. The New Jersey does not have such a model in the Captains In Port stateroom. In fact, no models at all. Just the Captains that took the Big J to sea through her years and two paintings. One of her launching the first Tomahawks and one in the Captains berth of a Korean landscape that was given to the ship by a mayor of one of the towns. Outside of that, furniture and the Officers wardroom silver. The real silver that belongs in that room is in the Governors mansion dinning room in Drumthwacket behind glass on display. If I were you, I would feel pretty dam proud that model will be on display in the location they suggested. You could not ask for better, nor a higher privilege..;)

                            If anyone can point out exactly where these lights are, I have not seen them yet, and I have been through pretty much every aspect of the bridge. I would be more then happy to photograph them for you to help out.
                            Last edited by Dreadnought; 08 Mar 12,, 05:22.
                            Fortitude.....The strength to persist...The courage to endure.

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                            • I appreciate all the comments. I am still very concerned that the model couldn't make the voyage. I knocked off one of the MK 37s (again!) when removing the errant rigging, but was able to refit it without too much trouble. Of all the parts of the ship that I worry about, it's those MK 37s. If I can get the model shipped via some military solution where I know it will be handled with great care (and love) I'd feel better.

                              Re: the running lights. It wasn't hard to make them so I can make new ones with the correct side baffles. The photos look like ship color, but there's a detail drawing in the plan book that shows the blacken panels. I can go either way. The should also be a little longer. I ordered the E-Z Line elastic rigging material. It should be here sometime late next week. Meanwhile, I'll get the running lights installed.

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                              • Back to work...

                                You may have noticed a lull in my entries... I was waiting for the E-Z Line rigging material to arrive. It came yesterday. Today I got back to work in the shop (after doing a plumbing job).

                                Before I got started on the rigging, I made some more attempts to get a reasonable running light. I tried to make them out of brass, but they were too clunky. So I bought some more Evergreen Styrene angle and made them out of it.

                                To make the lights look more lively I used aluminum foil behind clear, stretched sprue for the lamps. Then I used the Tamiya clear green and red on the outside of the lamps, removed the excess foil and painted the haze gray. At least that's how it was supposed to go. It did, but there were some complications when gray paint got on the green lens and in removing it took away some of the shine.

                                Here's some photos of the running lights (which are now installed).









                                I noticed on the Gibbs & Cox model that the side boards were painted black, but the back board was gray so that's the way I finished them.

                                Here's a picture showing the installed starboard side running like and some rigging. Let me explain some of the rigging concepts.

                                To fasten the radio lines to the fore part of the superstructure on the prototype there are very fine tripod support systems (lots of them). They are too fine to do in 350, so I faked it by inserting and CA'ing pieces of 0.014" piano wire (smallest size drill I have) to belay the radio rigging. Rather than duplicate every line I picked some of the more obvious ones and modeled them.

                                The E-Z Line is fantastic! I will never rig another modern ship any other way. It has several unique features.
                                It is:
                                1. Very thin...0.003"... which is a couple of thou smaller than my stretched sprue attempt.
                                2. It has an affinity for CA and some how cures to it instantly. So you simply hold the line on the place you want it to attach and touch the CA to it. Instantly that line is there to say.
                                3. It stretches a lot. You install it with a little tension and it doesn't go slack. Then, if you like me, and you accidentally touch it, it just gives and doesn't come off.
                                4. It comes in black and rope colors so there's no painting the lines like you do with fly-tying nylon.

                                I'm hooked. The picture shows the fore part of the super, but the rest of the rigging is on another pic and since it makes six, will be on the next thread.

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