Plate Steel vs. Cast Iron Wood Stoves

**Debbie** · 17 Oct 07,, 19:35

You know Rusty, I've thought about encasing it. Since they had to go through the soffit, it would look just fine that way. Thing is, do I want to incur the expense or should I leave that for the next person who moves in? How would non-encased versus encased affect that much value of the home itself? There there is the cleaning, how does that all get done when it is encased?

**mike nickeas** · 17 Oct 07,, 21:53

Charnwood

Charnwood Country 8 Woodburning Stove
£775.00 Dovre

Name: clip_image002.gif
Views: 93
Size: 4.9 KB

Name: p205e.gif
Views: 102
Size: 56.0 KB

Mike

**RustyBattleship** · 17 Oct 07,, 23:34

Originally Posted by Debbie

You know Rusty, I've thought about encasing it. Since they had to go through the soffit, it would look just fine that way. Thing is, do I want to incur the expense or should I leave that for the next person who moves in? How would non-encased versus encased affect that much value of the home itself? There there is the cleaning, how does that all get done when it is encased?

Cleaning:
If your chimney is more than two stories tall, you need to hire a professional chimney sweep once a year to scrub out the potentially flammable resins and tars that build up inside the inner tile pipe. This he does from the roof top using long handled brushes and sometimes has to spray with a solvent.

At the bottom of the tile you need an "ash" clean-out door (like open fire places have) so the soot and dust from chimney sweeping can be taken out rather than with a vacuum hose.

But if you only have a one story house, the interior of the tile pipe is hot enough to expel soot and vaporized resins into the air. Only taller chimneys need annual sweeping because the cooling off soot and stuff sticks to the cooler insides.

**Debbie** · 18 Oct 07,, 04:30

Originally Posted by RustyBattleship

Cleaning:
If your chimney is more than two stories tall, you need to hire a professional chimney sweep once a year to scrub out the potentially flammable resins and tars that build up inside the inner tile pipe. This he does from the roof top using long handled brushes and sometimes has to spray with a solvent.

At the bottom of the tile you need an "ash" clean-out door (like open fire places have) so the soot and dust from chimney sweeping can be taken out rather than with a vacuum hose.

But if you only have a one story house, the interior of the tile pipe is hot enough to expel soot and vaporized resins into the air. Only taller chimneys need annual sweeping because the cooling off soot and stuff sticks to the cooler insides.

Two stories - loads of chimney pipe. Will search the internet for plans for encasement and see what happens.

**Debbie** · 21 Oct 07,, 21:01

The new floor is totally down except for the one board needed before going to the steps and the 2 needed on the platform of the steps. Have to go up and down and with those in - pretty darn big leap. Anywhoooo, the flooring in the main portion of the living room is different than the raised portion. This stuff has things like baby footprints, sideways square nail imprints, a dog paw print - not from mine and even the start of a math problem. This might bother some, but I find it all absolutely charming. Three days now of drying and then the poly can go on. This wood stove has created alot of work. The steps need to be replaced and I found a fantastic newell post at the salvage yard yesterday. Bugger has got to weigh at least 100 pounds.

**mike nickeas** · 21 Oct 07,, 23:55

Debbie I am at a loss, you didn't even comment about the two wood burning stoves I posted, never mind I will crawl back under that log over there.

**RustyBattleship** · 22 Oct 07,, 02:39

Originally Posted by mike nickeas

Debbie I am at a loss, you didn't even comment about the two wood burning stoves I posted, never mind I will crawl back under that log over there.

I have a sneaky hunch that Debbie is like me and would prefer to have a wood burning stove with a flat top so she can griddle pancakes on it.

But that's just a theory.

**Debbie** · 22 Oct 07,, 03:06

Originally Posted by mike nickeas

Debbie I am at a loss, you didn't even comment about the two wood burning stoves I posted, never mind I will crawl back under that log over there.

In the other house there was on that was close in style to the bottom picture except for the 2 front dampers. Typical man, show me what you have then I have to go on and on about how wonderful it is.

**dave lukins** · 22 Oct 07,, 09:38

Originally Posted by Debbie

Typical man, show me what you have then I have to go on and on about how wonderful it is.

Yes, Yes, but what about the stoves??

)

**Debbie** · 27 Oct 07,, 03:38

The wood stove is fantastic - 3 logs and I get a 5 hour burn with hot enough coals to start anew. Have been using almost on a nightly basis M-F and on the weekends all day - just 1 log to keep it going.

First coat of poly on the rest of living room this afternoon - took 3 and 1/2 hours. Eyes are still burning and throat is sore, but not as bad as the last time. Some "high" that was.....

Now on the lookout for 6" baseboard needing a cap and shoe along with I think some fancy sort of thingies for the corners. Have been looking at plinth blocks as well for the trim around doors and windows. Will be taking apart the staircase next weekend to see how that is made. Will replace treads with 2" pine board I think with oak trim on the front top. So looking down on the tread there will be a 2" board of oak with the rest of board in pine. It mimics the floor style. The oak takes the brunt of the step. Kind of different but it looks nice.

**RustyBattleship** · 27 Oct 07,, 03:54

Originally Posted by Debbie

The wood stove is fantastic - 3 logs and I get a 5 hour burn with hot enough coals to start anew. Have been using almost on a nightly basis M-F and on the weekends all day - just 1 log to keep it going..

Sounds absolutely great. How are you venting it to the outside?

.[/QUOTE]Will be taking apart the staircase next weekend to see how that is made. Will replace treads with 2" pine board I think with oak trim on the front top. So looking down on the tread there will be a 2" board of oak with the rest of board in pine. It mimics the floor style. The oak takes the brunt of the step. Kind of different but it looks nice.[/QUOTE]

Remember, 2" is only a dimensional figure. They are actually only 1 1/2". Instead of Pine that's a bit on the soft side and can soak up moisture and humidity, consider Birch or Beech for the treads themselves. They will take the wear much better. If you like stark contrasts in brown and tan colors, get Paint Grade Birch. That's the cheapest. If you prefer a more uniform set of colors and grains, look at Beech.

My kitchen cabinets are paint grade Birch (did them myself) and the floor is Beech (installed by our daughter).

Below is a picture of one corner of the kitchen for your perusal.

**Debbie** · 27 Oct 07,, 04:34

I really like wood that has a fascinating grain to it. That Birch is nice. The cabinets are lovely and it is quite a tradesman that can make cabinets. I am very impressed. One of the reasons that the reclaim ponderosa pine for the floor had such an appeal for me was the coloration is fantastic and it made its way through 50 - 100 years, it's not going anywhere. Two coats of oil and 3 coats of poly are on it. Was told it should outlast the house.

The treads for the stairs would be reclaim 2" in the oak and the pine, not less. Boards aren't coming from the DIY store - I'm not a fan of dimension lumber. Granted, trying to find the other is tough, but I know people who have piles of the stuff so for me its easy to get as long as I am not greedy. Some is free, some has to be paid for. I've talked to people about the treads in pine, I figured that with the wear pine is not a good choice either but was told that it should be fine if tempered with the oak like I have for the floor. But was told if has to be 2" and not less. Is this a case where more would be better as in 2 and 1/2 or 3" ? I would be putting 2 coats of oil and 3 coats of poly on this as well.

**Debbie** · 28 Oct 07,, 04:12

Rusty - forgot to answer the first part of your question - venting is through the wall - 2 layers of sheetrock, lath and plaster, 1"pine board, wood lap siding, foam board and steel siding. Should have seen the guys face - thought he was never going to get to the other side and I couldn't believe it all myself. I always wondered why the house never shook when the straight line winds came through a month or so back.

**RustyBattleship** · 28 Oct 07,, 04:33

Originally Posted by Debbie

Rusty - forgot to answer the first part of your question - venting is through the wall - 2 layers of sheetrock, lath and plaster, 1"pine board, wood lap siding, foam board and steel siding. Should have seen the guys face - thought he was never going to get to the other side and I couldn't believe it all myself. I always wondered why the house never shook when the straight line winds came through a month or so back.

Heck. During hunting season you are totally bullet proof against strays. Even if Wisconsin allowed centerfire rifle instead of only shotgun slugs, you are still safe. Only armor piercing bullets from one of my M-1 Garands or 03-A3 Springfield could go through all of that.