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Thread: Trumpeter 1:350 USS Essex Late WW2 Trim

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gun Grape View Post
    I will partally agree on the real thing. The Hornet only has you and maybe a handful of people cleaning/spot painting. A active carrier has a boatload of deck apes whos only purpose is chipping paint. Now below the deckline/anywhere they have to hang over the side the ship will get rust streaks. But once they get in port its over the side chipping and painting.

    As for the model. Its a presentation/Builders model. Suppose to be spotless
    https://pilotonline.com/news/militar...249d34da2.html I thought they were changing paint to ease manpower cost and improve efficiency on many fronts.

  2. #17
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
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    Essex: To weather or not weather...

    Have to agree with Gun on this one. Museum models are rarely weathered. They are almost always pristine. Most captains take great pride in the condition of their vessels and when steaming from one engagement to another there's 3,000 people that need something to do. Idle hands are the devil's playground, so keeping a warship in shipshape condition is the norm, not the exception. My model will have occasional rust, but not "weathered".

    Here's what I'm talking about.

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    Even the anchors get taken care of. Wouldn't like that job though...

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Builder 2010 View Post
    Have to agree with Gun on this one. Museum models are rarely weathered. They are almost always pristine. Most captains take great pride in the condition of their vessels and when steaming from one engagement to another there's 3,000 people that need something to do. Idle hands are the devil's playground, so keeping a warship in shipshape condition is the norm, not the exception. My model will have occasional rust, but not "weathered".

    Here's what I'm talking about.

    Name:  Missouri Anchor sm.jpg
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    Even the anchors get taken care of. Wouldn't like that job though...
    That photo is a profile in Cal OSHA/OSHA work place violation. The harness and flotation device ok but no hard hat goggles or respirator.

  4. #19
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
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    Essex: Work Continues on Hull (Part A)

    That was an interesting article on painting! I wondered about painting where the welding was going and then got to the paragraph about taping the weld areas so they didn't get painted. There's still some touch up that would be needed to paint the weld beads themselves.

    The PE was ordered from TotalNavy.com, a comprehenisve website with lots of materials, paints, and PE for ship modeling. I ordered the GMM full Essex set, a fret of Eduard 1:350 WW2 Carrier Naval figures, and some brass display pedestals.

    Today's work was a potpouri of various activities. Started out by finish sanding all the filler on the port side that was added on Firday and added some more today.

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    I'm reasonably happy with how the filling turned out.

    I want to light the hangar deck with LEDs so some of today's work was to prepare the hull for this. Much of this has to be done ahead of time or you're out of luck.

    AC adaptors make great power supplies for LEDs and we all have a load of them in drawers of old cell phones and computer junk. I found another AC adaptor in a drawer upstairs in the office yesterday when I was getting our 2018 files sorted out. It was a 4 - USB port which no longer has any purpose since everything in the house runs on WiFi. The adaptor was 5.0 VDC and 2 amps so it could drive a pile of LEDs. I'm going to use an LED driver chip which takes any voltage input from 5 to 90 volts and outputs a 20 ma current that's directly able to drive a string of LEDs without the need for currect limiting resistors.

    I liked that the adaptor had a mini-power plug and the Belkin USB device had the female socket. I took the unit apart and de-soldered the socket from the circuit board and scraped the board. I then cut a rectagular hole in the bottom of the hull to accept this socket. I traced the socket's perimeter, opened it up with the carbide router, and filed it to final size for a snug fit.

    I needed to find out which socket leads were what and powered it up and measured the voltage. The center lead is +, and one side lead -, the other lead was dead so I cut it off. I now won't have the chance to wire it backwards.

    I CA'd the socket into the hole and then glued some additional support around it with styrene. The socket had two little plastic alignment pins that I left on siince they acted as stops and positioned the socket nicely in the hole.

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    With the power input in place I needed to plan on how to get the wiring into the hangar deck. The lights are going on the ceiling so the wiring had to come up in a way to get there nicely. I drilled an 1/8" hole through the large structure that sits under the island and then continued drilling through the hangar deck below. I needed to then install a tube between the two holes so the wiring would be easy to thread. I cut a piece of 1/8" brass tubing and CA'd it into place. So that part is now done also.

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  5. #20
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
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    Essex: Work Continues on Hull (Part B)

    Next up was modifying the foward port-side sponson to become the new double 40mm gun emplacement. I was really glad that the sponson was already in the kit since it's a tricky attachment since the hull is not vertical so far forward. I was able to cannibalize a gun tube from my 1985 Tamiya Missouri which has been steadily being stripped of all usuable components before going under the scraper's torch.

    I cut segments of the tub to glue to the sponson edges. I then used some 0.020" X 0.188" Evergreen stock to form the rest of the sponson edges. I first used solvent cement and CA to better secure the walls. Lastly, I mixed up some J-B Weld 5-minute clear epoxy with a load of Micro-balloons filler to create the blob on the bottom that I'll shape to the curved bulge that mades up the transition from the gun tub edge to the sponson's flank.

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    The gap between the hull and the hangar deck was too large for my liking and the PE railing was going in that area. So I filled it with some styrene and then added some filler.

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    While all this was curing I got back to work on the fantail adding some more bulkheads. I scraped off Trumpeter's molded-on doors and added some more open Eduard PE WT doors. I'm noting that the Trumpeter doors are a bit oversized, so there will be a difference between the PE doors and the model's.

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    I ended the session putting these parts onto the ship. I also finished sanded the filled fantail areas. I have to be careful going forward since there's a ton of PE that goes into the fantail. I don't want to glue in solid plastic only to find out when the PE arrives that it's got to be pulled out.

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    Since I'm adding two more 40mm emplacements that weren't in the kit, I pulled these off the Missouri too. These are the last non-damage 40s from that ship. I used a bunch of them when building the good Missouri. The screws in the pic are the ones from that USB hub that gave up its socket for the project.

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  6. #21
    Resident Curmudgeon Military Professional Gun Grape's Avatar
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    Wow, your beating this thing into submission. I know the quality of work you do. If this thing requires you to use so much filler its got to be a bad kit.

    Alliance Model Works makes some really nice 40mm mounts. I used them on my Fletcher. Got mine from Sprue Brothers. Now about the only place I buy on-line. But the don,t carry GMM. Fot that I go to Freetime Hobbies.

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    Does Total Navy really take up to 3 weeks on PE orders? 3-5 days was the longest I've waited for an order from SB or FTH.
    Its called Tourist Season. So why can't we shoot them?

  7. #22
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gun Grape View Post
    I will partally agree on the real thing. The Hornet only has you and maybe a handful of people cleaning/spot painting. A active carrier has a boatload of deck apes whos only purpose is chipping paint. Now below the deckline/anywhere they have to hang over the side the ship will get rust streaks. But once they get in port its over the side chipping and painting.

    As for the model. Its a presentation/Builders model. Suppose to be spotless
    Ok, for a presentation you are right.

    As for a actual carrier my experience on the Kitty Hawk, Connie and Ranger on various Fleet Weeks showed me reality was different. When last on Connie I spent more time wandering the ship looking at details and noticed simple stuff such as rusted through stuffing tubes on the flight deck perimeter. When I questioned sailors about it I pretty much got a shrug. Actually when it came to clean ships I would have to say the Canadians and Japanese have it over us as their ships, at a Fleet Week, were immaculate. Unlike your average visitor I always look into the nooks and crannies which can drive some people crazy.

    After some of the issues coming out of the Seventh Fleet concerning ship maintenance I wonder if anything has changed.

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