Page 12 of 16 FirstFirst ... 345678910111213141516 LastLast
Results 166 to 180 of 236

Thread: Trumpeter 1:350 USS Essex Late WW2 Trim

  1. #166
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Flight Deck Painting etc.

    It was time to paint the flight deck, but before I could do that I had to install the mid-deck elevators. They're held in place by simulated hydraulic pistons. You can't really glue the elevators directly into the deck since there is a gap all the way around and no lip so gluing would be a real problem. I hadn't test fit these parts before the flight deck was glued in place. Had I done so, I could have glued in a lip around the bottom of the opening to provide a level gluing surface. When I glued in the pistons and tried the elevators in their spaces they were not flush. The elevators were below the FD surface by varying amounts. After measuring with the depth gauge on the digital caliper I found the mid-ship elevator about 0.050" low on one side and 0.020" low on the other. I shimmed the bottoms of the pistons to raise the elevator the correct amount.

    I painted the footings with deck blue and the piston rod with the Molotow Chrome Pen, and the elevator bottom, white, to match the rest of the hangar ceiling.

    Name:  Essex Elevator  .jpg
Views: 222
Size:  489.8 KB

    The whole assembly was glued in place by medium CA on the piston feet and the result was a nice flush fit elevator.

    Name:  Essex Elevator Fit.JPG
Views: 194
Size:  662.8 KB

    The forward elevator had similar alignment problems with the high size reversed in position from the mid-ship elevator. It was also less severe being level on one side and 0.020" on the other.

    With the elevators in place, I masked the deck edges with narrow Tamiya tape and then with fat 3M blue tape. The Life Color Flight Deck Blue Stain is a much lighter color than the standard deck blue. I didn't want this paint on the hull or inside the hangar deck.

    Before shooting the FD Blue, I wanted to lay down some wood tan. My plan is to lightly sand off the deck blue in the wear areas to expose the wood decking below. I used the cheap fine-line airbrush for this color. Being Tamiya paint, it dried quickly. I first used my new cheap med-line airbrush for the FD Blue, but wasn't happy with how it was working. I mixed the paint about 40% Testor's Acrylic Thinner to paint. After painting for a while and cleaning the gun twice, I switched to my very old Badger 150 and finished the job without difficulty. I'm going to have to figure out what's going on with the new air brush. Just because it was new and cheap doesn't make it effective.

    Name:  Essex FD Painting.JPG
Views: 184
Size:  874.5 KB

    After the FD Blue set up I removed the tape and went around the model to do touch up painting. I added another 40mm gun director tub and platform on the forward port side. This little platform seems like it going to need a PE railing. In fact, there are tons of PE railings that connect the catwalks to each of the 20mm gun galleries. I didn't want to sand any paint until it was fully set up. Even though it no longer looked wet (I used the heat gun to force dry it), I can still smell resin and will sand it tomorrow or Wednesday when it's fully cured. I'm actually being patient here...!

    While this was drying I started fine sanding the Ford GTA. I was working on the body and the window pillar on the driver's side separated at the base of the windshield. This was the area where I opened the body to make the driver's door operative.

    So I went back to work on the Essex by starting to build the new airplanes that arrived. This time I decided to get rid of the overly dramatic panel lines by filling them all with Tamiya putty as I go along. It's nice that gull wing roots are molded in one piece so I didn't have to worry about getting that right.

    Name:  Essex Corsair Assembly.JPG
Views: 184
Size:  527.6 KB

    Incidentally, this particular aircraft didn't come into the fleet until late in the War so Trumpeter has made the decal sheet for the Essex and has the diamond tail pattern, so I don't have to create another custom set. I was surprised and happy to see this little help. Or as Mark Knopfler sang, "You might get lucky sometimes."

    Name:  Essex Corsair Decals.JPG
Views: 207
Size:  553.6 KB

    I have a couple more build days and then we're off on another trip. This time it will be our Springtime trip back East to reconnect with family and friends.

  2. #167
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex Corsairs and Mystery Tubs

    Continued building the Corsairs today with the filling and attaching the wings and the horizonatal stab.

    Name:  Essex Corsair Wings.jpg
Views: 178
Size:  909.9 KB

    Just started to put on the landing gear, got looking for my thick CA, and got sidetracked. In looking through my messy shop for a small tube of Henkel thick CA, I was looking at the "B" sprue and noticed three parts that weren't on the ship, but seemed like they should be. One part, a partition, I found noted on the instructions which I had missed. It sits on the port side aft just behind the 40mm gun tub that sits in the front of the space. The other parts were two similar 20mm tubs that should be hanging off the flight deck, but there was no mention of them in the instructions and I reviewed them over and over. There were two notches in the after end of the starboard flight deck that fit these parts perfectly, so I glued them in. Instructions showed the gaps in several images. Without these being there, there was no purpose for the galleries on either side. They had to be there. Trumpeter made a mistake.

    Name:  Essex Mystery Tubs 2.JPG
Views: 171
Size:  687.4 KB

    One of them had provision for lift rafts. These needed painting: white on the bottom, navy blue on the sides of the splinter shields and deck blue for the horizontal services, but was not an airbrush candidate so it was all brush painted. Deck blue wasn't completely dry in this picture.

    Name:  Essex Mystery Tubs 1.JPG
Views: 169
Size:  756.4 KB

    Last thing I did was more touch up painting and I decided that the lift rafts needed to be a different color so I painted them haze gray. I was unhappy that the edges were navy blue and the undersides were white. Now they're differentiated. I would imagine that life rafts would not be painted when the ship was. I'm noticing the un-filed sprue tabs on some of them... I'm slipping.

    Name:  Essex Haze Gray Rafts.JPG
Views: 170
Size:  849.0 KB

    I may or may not get back in the shop tomorrow since we're heading East on Thursday for our Spring trip. If I don't, I be back reporting on this build during the week of May 7.

  3. #168
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Corsairs Build

    Did get some work in starting at 3:30 and finishing at 4:45. Got the Corsairs ready for paint and started on the last 6 Hellcats. In order to glue those pesky Trumpeter tiny landing gear into the wings I needed something different. At THD I found Loctite "Plastic Bonder". It's CA plus an "activator". The activator smelled suspiciously like CA accelerator, but it works. I believe the landing gear is Delrin or some other tough, flexible plastic, that's hard to glue with solvent cement. Loctite is owned by the company paying my retirement, Henkel of Duesseldorf, Germany, the best company I ever worked for.

    Name:  Essex Loctite Plastic CA.jpg
Views: 164
Size:  698.2 KB

    There's not much CA in the glue tube. I was mostly air.

    You apply the activator which is a felt-tipped applicator and then give it about a minute. Then you apply the seems-like medium CA to one part and put them together. It seems to work. The gear are secure and none fell apart. Furthermore, I actually got all three kit gear on every plane without losing or breaking any. Whoopee!

    So here are six, gull-winged beauties that will have to wait until we return from our trip.

    Name:  Essex Corsairs ready for Paint.JPG
Views: 164
Size:  415.6 KB

    I then got to work on the last Hellcats. Again, I'm filling all the visible seams except for flight surface joint (flaps, ailerons, elevator and rudder). I smeared the filler on the wing top surfaces, but not the bottom since it won't be seen. All of this will have over a week to dry since that's when it will be sanded off.

    Name:  Essex Hellcat Filling.JPG
Views: 163
Size:  1,014.6 KB

    I also found a way to remove the props from the frets without a) leaving a nub which is next to impossible to trim, and b) not breaking any. I used a very sharp, new #11 blade to carefully trim them off, instead of using my flush cutters since on parts this small tend to have a little sprue left over.

    Just for fun I decided to place all the air wing so far onto the flight deck. I will have a total of 19 aircraft when they're all done.

    Name:  Essex Air Wing Status.JPG
Views: 160
Size:  736.2 KB

    So until we return, have a nice Spring.

  4. #169
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Hellcats Build cont.

    I'm back. Had a very nice trip back East. The first weekend was so cold in State College (Penn State) that we had winter coats, hats and gloves. By the end of the week the temp was in the low 90s in Philly. Ah... Spring. Yesterday and today Louisville weather was absolutely perfect and I got another color coat on the Ford Fairlane model and then got back to work on the Essex.

    I ordered the threaded tubes, nuts and bolts from Grand Brass Lamp Parts on the web that will support the model on the plank. While I didn't buy the pedestals from them (bought them from Totalnavy.com), they had the same turned brass parts for less money AND they had many more different turned objects that would make very nice ship pedestals. These are a 28 thread pipe thread that's specific to lamp construction. It's a straight thread unlike pipe threads which are tapered, but you won't find 1/2-28 threaded nuts at big box home centers. You'll need to get them at a lamp supplier. But the tube is designed to fit the pedestal perfectly.

    Name:  Essex Pedestal Parts.JPG
Views: 149
Size:  957.4 KB

    These parts are not particularly expensive.

    Then I got back to work on the Hellcats. I sanded off all the excess filler that was not totally cured after sitting for 13 days, and assembled the parts. Got almost finished putting on the landing gear and got drawn away to go with our oldest grandson to get fitted for his Jr. Prom tux. His mom was out of town, so I'll finish the Hellcats tomorrow and paint both them and the Cosairs. By the end of the week the air wing will be complete and I'll be back to work on the ship itself. I should be getting the finished plank any day now and prepare the lower hull for mounting. I think I want to put all the gallery guns and railing AFTER the ship is mounted to the plank since it makes it very stable. That's how I did it with the Missouri and it worked pretty well. Once I get the plank and get the final dimension on the perimeter rabbet cut that will support the clear case, I'll send those measures off to the plastics shop and have them cut to size.

    Name:  Essex Hellcat Progress.JPG
Views: 132
Size:  632.5 KB

    Notice, I did not fill the seams on the horizontal stabilizers. Enough was enough!

  5. #170
    Global Moderator
    Military Professional
    Defense Professional
    Albany Rifles's Avatar
    Join Date
    27 Apr 07
    Location
    Prince George, VA
    Posts
    8,888
    Again I am in awe. You do great work!
    “Loyalty to country ALWAYS. Loyalty to government, when it deserves it.”
    Mark Twain

  6. #171
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Hellcats and Corsairs Paint

    Well… thank you!

    Yesterday, I finished gluing all the Hellcats together. Only lost 2 tail wheels...

    Name:  Essex Hellcats Built 2.JPG
Views: 122
Size:  908.8 KB

    And then today I air brushed the Vallejo Dark Sea Blue. Took several light coats. Mixed the paint with about 30% (guesstimate) of Testor's Universal Acrylic Solvent.

    Name:  Essex New Planes Painted.jpg
Views: 114
Size:  916.0 KB

    Tomorrow I'm tied up and will not get much (if any) shop time, so the next work session I do have I will add the interior green, and flat black detail painting and start decaling. That should take a couple of days and then it's back to the rest of the ship. The plank is on its way and I may have to wait a bit longer to get the lower hull finished. I have other projects to work on during the wait. Can't order the plexiglass until I have the plank to take as-built measurements.

    BTW: I ordered and received Bondic UV-cured adhesive from Amazon. I wanted to see it if would work for the landing gear gluing. I arrived when we were away so I was able to try it out yesterday. It does work, but it needs a roughened surface or it doesn't hold so well. It does cure quickly and stays gel-like until you shine the light on it... which is convenient. I wonder how well it will work in holding on PE railings? Only restriction is the light must be able to get to the gel. In a totally closed joint it will not work.

  7. #172
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Base Plate Work

    The day started by painting the details on the 12 new airplanes (black tires and engines, plus interior green cockpit area). I then started the decaling process by putting on my custom tail design on the Hellcats and began the stars and bars decaling. I got one plane complete and started one more, and then broke for lunch. The Trumpeter Hellcat and Corsair decal set has the stars and bars as separate decals. I know why they did this, but it wasn't nice. The earlier planes just had stars and then later added bars so having them separate let you choose. BUT... it makes putting on the decals soooooo much more annoying. I found you have to trim the circle very tightly on the the sides and do the same for the bars mating sides so they'll nestle in correctly. I used MicroSol to get everything settled down.

    This close up shows the large clear area surrounding the printed area and this makes getting them close impossible. If you put on the star first, let it totally dry and then added the bars so the clear part overlaps the star, it could work, but it would also be a pain. Trimming close works better.

    Name:  Essex 3-part Stars-Bars.JPG
Views: 96
Size:  956.4 KB

    Then, during lunch, the mailman delivered my oak plank from my close friend in Albuquerque. It was packed within an inch of its life and came through unscathed.

    Name:  Essex Plank Package.JPG
Views: 94
Size:  703.9 KB

    Name:  Essex Finished Boat Plank.JPG
Views: 94
Size:  813.2 KB

    I masking-taped the top and bottom areas where the drilling would take place to prevent break out when the drill comes through. I located the center and drew a center line down the back side. My mount holes are to be 7 inches apart and I laid those out also. But they needed to match the ships layout and I couldn't drill them at the same time (safely) so I drilled a 1/16" holes in the hull at the proper locations and used a transfer punch of the same size to locate the two hole locations on the plank's bottom.

    The bottom needs to be counter-bored so there's room for the threaded pipe and brass nuts and this is done with a forstner bit. It has a pip in the middle which then serves as the starting point for the brad point bit to make the clearance hole. I put it all together to test the fit and it lined up nicely.

    Name:  Essex Test Mount 1.JPG
Views: 95
Size:  719.5 KB

    The upper and lower hulls are NOT glued in this pic, nor are the fasteners epoxied inside the lower hull. I was able to take final measurements for the plexiglass and I'll order that tomorrow. The I noticed how close the side elevator is to the rabbet edge that holds the plexiglass. I put a piece of flat stock in that location and found that there was about 1/16" clearance. Whew! Then... while driving my grandson home from his piano lesson and describing this new addtion to him while he looked at the pics, I remembered that there are PE simulated safety nets that go on the elevator's outer perimeter and they will exceed that 1/16".
    What to do? The pedestals are wider than the holes with enought material that I probably can elongate the holes in the hull enough to push it slightly off-center and give myself enough clearance to add the elevator nets. When I initially meausred for the plank, I guesstimated where that elevator was going to fall and thought I gave enough addtional clearance. It will work, but not without a little anxiety thrown in.

  8. #173
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: More Air Wing Work

    First thing I did today was elongate the holes in the hull to move the hull to starboard with enough clearance so the elevator safety nets will fit under the plexiglass cover. I held the pedestals over the holes and traced the perimeter so I'd know how much stock I could remove without exposing the hole. It gave me a good 3/16" which was all I needed. I then scribed the amount to remove and used a carbide router to clear it out. After again checking the clearance, I epoxied the brass thumb nuts into the hull. Again, I traced their outlines so I could correctly position them while curing. A little got into the threads on one of the nuts, but I got it out before it was fully cured. The nuts have a knurled edge with made it perfect for epoxying and will not spin or break loose. The thing in the middle is the connector for the 5VDC power source for the lighting.

    Name:  Essex Hull Nuts.JPG
Views: 96
Size:  997.5 KB

    Then it was back to the little airplanes. I got the insignia on all the Hellcats and then did the Corsairs. As noted the stars and bars are separate decals and need to nestle together to look right. I began to cut them en masse so I could work a bit faster. I also was getting hang of handling little decals with a tweezers. I never thought you could handle little decals with tweezers. You can see how close I had to trim the star and one edge of the bars so they'll nest together. BTW: the tail decals on the Corsairs are Trumpeter decals and went on well. Saved me design and printing time! The toothpick gives evidence of scale.

    Name:  Essex Corsair Decals.JPG
Views: 93
Size:  892.0 KB

    I always was under the impression that you had to "slide the decals off the backing paper onto the model" and with small decals that gets to be a miserable challenge. I saw a video where the guy was manipulating the small decals with tweezers. He'd pluck them off the backing and transfer them to the model. I tried it with these mini-decals and it worked very well indeed.

    So I finished all the decals for all the new planes.

    Name:  Essex Air Wing Decals Comp.JPG
Views: 108
Size:  920.2 KB

    All that's left is canopies and props. They're not troubling and will be done tomorrow. The epoxy will be cured and I'm going to paint the lower hull with Tamiya hull red and then solder the lighting leads and attach the lower hull to the upper.

  9. #174
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Air Wing Complete

    It's not wether you screw up or not, it's how you recover. That holds true in restaurants and model building.

    Today, I painted the hull Tamiya Dull Red... I wonder if that was a mistake since I'm sure that it should be "Hull Red", but the label read "Dull Red". I sprayed it in the garage with the door open since it started to rain. I actually got a couple of water drops on it and took it downstairs and force dried the first coat with the heat gun, and then sprayed another coat under cover. Wife had the Buick out on errands so there was plenty of room.

    Name:  Essex Hull Painting.jpg
Views: 81
Size:  705.1 KB

    Paint was glossy as it was still wet.

    Got back to finishing up the air wing. Found that Bondic was great for gluing on canopies. It's the UV-curing adhesive/filler that's sold in places like Amazon. It's not cheap (about $20 for a kit with two tubes of adhesive and the UV-LED light source), but it worked great. Since it doesn't cure until you hit it with UV, you don't have to rush in getting things positioned or worry about getting glue on unwanted places since it just wipes off. A small amount under the canopy, position the canopy and then shine the light on it for about 5 seconds and it's solid. Since the canopies are transparent, the UV penetrates to the entire bit of adhesive and cures it all completely. I lost two canopies, one to the Rift launching out of a holding device and another got crushed. I was holding it in my small Xuron tweezer pliers (a bit too hard) to file the back edge of the canopy. Due to molding draft (the angle on molded parts that enables the part to be pulled from the mold), the canopies, especially on the Hellcats, was not nestling into the back of the opening. Well... I didn't know my own strength and the part simply exploded.

    So I was able to re-create the semblance of a canopy by using multiple layers of Bondic to build up the contour. I put on a layer, light it up, and then add another layer. It worked very well and after using the Sharpie to line it you can hardly tell which has a molded canopy and Bondic one.

    Then a near catastrophe happened. I didn't realize how precariously the hull was situatued sitting on my O'gauge railroad tracked shelf. I was trying to neatly position the entire air wing (just to enjoy looking at them) and the entire ship and all the planes headed for the concrete. I was able to break the fall of the hull so it landed with no damage (miracle) except for the elevator being bent upward in its mounting... very correctable. And of all the planes hitting the ground, four were damaged: one landing gear - reglued, one prop - reattached, and one prop lost to the Rift - modified. The only plane that is being scrapped is a Corsair that lost a tail and can't be replaced. That tail was poorly mounted in the first place.

    For the missing prop, I took it as an opportunity to attempt to make a spinning prop simulation. The prop radius meausred to 0.215". So I made a disc out of 0.010" clear styrene and glued a broken prop hub into it after drilling a 0.038". I then mounted this tiny hub into the Dremel and spun it slowly and painted the yellow rim. I then hand painted the prop sweeps using flat black. It's not great, but it was worth the try. So the air wing is now complete. On this batch, I even went so far as to paint the oleo struts with the Molotow Chrome Pen. AMS rears its ugly head again!

    Name:  Essex Air Wing Complete.JPG
Views: 77
Size:  774.0 KB

    Next session I will solder the lighting leads to the connector and then glue the lower hull to the upper and mount it to the base. Then it will be time to finish up detailing the catwalks and galleries, and mount many, many guns. I still have to rig the island before attaching it. It will be attached after I decal and weather the flight deck.

  10. #175
    Contributor bbvet's Avatar
    Join Date
    19 Apr 14
    Location
    Mocksville, NC
    Posts
    352
    B2010,

    Your air wing is looking fine! One comment re. the rotating prop - I'm wondering if you did the same things, but instead of using a full strength yellow, perhaps dilute it to where it appears almost like a "transparent" ring of color when it is applied to the rotating clear disc. I recall seeing a famous photo of the LEX (I think) with a fighter taxiing up to launch with the prop wash "appearing" in the outer band of the rotation, but not actually a solid thing. Does this make sense?

    Just a thought...

    Hank

  11. #176
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844
    Yup! Makes sense. I can try it again and again until I get it right. Only one problem. The prop hub is CA'd into the disk. If I extricate it without wrecking it I could do another. Don't know if I'm up to the task. Those planes are soooo fragile. If you jerk just a tiny bit when picking up or handling, something falls off.

  12. #177
    Contributor bbvet's Avatar
    Join Date
    19 Apr 14
    Location
    Mocksville, NC
    Posts
    352
    B2010,

    Fully understand! My small effort at constructing the fwd. discone/discage UHF antenna on NEW JERSEY was also one of these "super fragile" items that took me 6 weeks to finally construct in one piece without screwing it up. Several rebuilds in the process.

    Well, perhaps on another build - keep up the fine job! I'm following your tale...

    Hank

  13. #178
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Weekend Work… Hull joined, Deck detailing begun (Part A)

    A rare weekend session and some progress to report. It was time to connect the hull to the bottom. I found that the width of the upper hull was wide than the lower hull and I was well beyond the stage where I could do filling. What needed to be done was remove the hull structural supports that Trumpeter molds in to strengthen the hull structure. When I cut, relieved and removed them I was able to pull the hulls sides in to match the lower hull's shape.

    Name:  Essex Relief Cuts.JPG
Views: 69
Size:  964.8 KB

    I had to keep reminding myself to hook up the wires to the hangar deck lighting. Simple solder job. The center lead is the hot lead and even thought the connector in most electronics has three leads, only one outside lead is negative, the other is not connected. You have to do a continuity test to find out which one is real.

    Name:  Essex lights connected.JPG
Views: 68
Size:  600.7 KB

    I was then ready to glue the two together. I used an old, short-bristle brush to smear on Testor's tube cement. I didn't want the glue to dry to quickly and any solvent cement would. I then fit the hull in place and used Tamiya masking tape to hold together any stubborn areas.

    Name:  Essex Hull Glued.JPG
Views: 69
Size:  759.3 KB

    It was time to mask and paint the boot topping. I don't know the exact measurement and, unlike Tamiya, Trumpeter doesn't etch the positions of the waterline and boot topping, and I wasn't able to run a surface gauge around to scribe an even line. So I did the next best thing and used Tamiya narrow masking tape as a guage strategically place pieces around the hull touching the existing waterline. I then used the same tape to create the line. This was all done after I masked the lower part of the line with thin tape and then thicker tape and finally newsprint with 3M blue tape. For the tight curves around the stern, I used a new product, Tamiya curve tape which is flexible and bends nicely around turns without buckling.

    Name:  Essex Boot Topping Masked.JPG
Views: 66
Size:  689.0 KB

    Boot topping was painted flat black. Once dry I permanently mounted the ship to the plank and then protected the exposed wood for the rest of the build with bubble wrap. I found some damage to the elevator due to the ship's fall to the concrete last week. I will repair the elevator as best I can... the PE looks pretty pathetic...and I'm going to install it in the lowest position which I couldn't do before. Making lemonade.

    With the model mounted and base protected, I turned the whole deal upside down and rested it on the flight deck and finished installing the hanging catwalks under the bow. There are four of them. Two which I has installed before and that fell off, and two more just under the flight deck's forward edge.

    Name:  Essex Bow Details Complete.JPG
Views: 65
Size:  891.3 KB

  14. #179
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Weekend Work… Hull joined, Deck detailing begun (Part B)

    I turned it back rightside up and started installing the catwalk railings. GMM includes a lot of standard railings to be glued to the plastic catwalks on the modeling their regular set. On the upgrade set, GMM has a catwalk that has 3 folds, an under-bracing, the perforated catwalk and the railing. You're supposed to cut all the kit catwalks off (which I hadn't done) and then edge glue the folded assembly to the existing spot. I was not happy about that so I chose to glue the perforated assembly directly onto the plastic catwalk. It's the best of both worlds since you can see the perforations when you look down on them, but they're much more secure. It is thicker than it would be with just the PE, but it will hold up much better. In Eduard's set, they just give you the railings to glue to the plastic catwalks.

    Name:  Essex Catwalk Rails 1.JPG
Views: 67
Size:  739.5 KB

    Name:  Essex Catwalk Rails 2.JPG
Views: 73
Size:  921.2 KB

    Then I noticed something on the floor. It was one of the twin 20 mm gun tubs AND it was flattened by my desk chair wheel (Murphy strikes again). It wasn't a lost cause, just a hospital case. I removed the crushed plastic splinter shields and the under-bracing and sanded the surfaces smooth. I then fabricated new shields and bracing using the same Evergreen strip that I used for the scratch-built railing on the island.

    Name:  Essex Gun Tub repair.JPG
Views: 65
Size:  819.9 KB

    The end result was glued back in its place. No harm, no foul. The thinner shields look better, but it does make the tub a tad wider since I'm gluing the shields onto the perimeter edge and the kit's come straight up from the end.

    Name:  Essex Repaired Installed 20mm tub.JPG
Views: 64
Size:  888.2 KB

    The reason I was able to work on a Sunday was my number 2 grandson had another school project. He's in 8th grade and finals are next week. This time was project was creating a mouseleum and crypt to be used in a Romeo and Juliette discussion. He did most of the work and when I wasn't helping him I was building an aircraft carrier.

    This was my first Trumpeter big ship kit and, while I understand the reason for the two-part hulls, I find the results to be sub-par. It's a very long glue joint that is very easy to have mis-fits. I can imagine that it does make building a waterline model easier, but it makes doing a standard build harder than it needs to be.

  15. #180
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
    Join Date
    23 May 11
    Location
    Louisville, KY, USA
    Posts
    1,844

    Essex: Starboard Catwalks Installed

    First, I thought I took a picture yesterday of the Tamiya curvy tape, and I had, but it was in my deleted photos on the iPhone, so I retrieved it and here it is. You can see how nicely it conforms to the curve.

    Name:  Essex Tamiya Curvy Tape.jpg
Views: 72
Size:  1,000.6 KB

    Today, I turned the ship around and put in the catwalk rails. There were some wrinkles to this side since the rails go up and down around the places where the long range radio antenna go. You can just do a straight bend on these rails since it will impinge on the parts that bend at a different location, so some of the smaller bends were done the old-school way, pliers. There are simulated steps included in this piece of brass that gets folded at an angle to conform to the plastic and the railing.

    Before the brass can go in place, I had to mill off plastic bumps that were used to locate the kit's antenna bases. It looks like heck, but it gets covered by the brass and touch-up painted. This is creative destruction. When modifying models you always go through this "demo" stage before it gets better.

    Name:  Essex Creative Descruction.JPG
Views: 65
Size:  998.2 KB

    In this pic there are two brass folded parts; one on the upper and one on the lower levels. The stair component is part of the upper brass piece. Really spiffs up the edges of the flight deck.

    Name:  Essex Strbd Side Catwalks 2.JPG
Views: 59
Size:  704.7 KB

    There are a passel of small ladders that go from the flight deck down to the catwalks. These are part of the basic GMM set. GMM doesn't specifiy where they're supposed to go and says, "check you reference material". I don't think they going into the gun tubs since there's no room. Besides, the model doesn't include ready-ammo lockers that would be near the 20mms I presume.

    Name:  Essex Flt Deck Steps.JPG
Views: 60
Size:  719.9 KB

    The above shows the catwalks after the first round of touch up painting. After I put these small ladders in place, I'll go back and do it again. I definitely can appreciate the delicacy of removing the plastic catwalks before attaching the brass ones, but I assure you, they would have been very, very fragile and prone for detachment if you happen to hold the model the wrong way.

    I also added the stern catwalk that sits between the aft 20mm gun tubs. There was a diagonal brace that was supposed to be added to this facing rearward, but after fussing with it and not being very happy, I scrapped it. And after looking at this picture I noticed that crushed railing which I'll have to straighten. It's exactly what I noted above about PE railings being prone to getting zapped. The catwalk needs touch up painting that will happen tomorrow. I like how busy that fantail is looking.

    Name:  Essex Stern Catwalk.JPG
Views: 60
Size:  604.5 KB

    I have some more railings to go on the hangar deck level, the ships cranes and the radio masts. Since the radio masts are not going onto brass, not plastic, I'm thinking that I may attempt to solder them with TIX solder which melts below 300 degrees. Otherwise, It will have to be epoxy. I may also try soldering a flat piece to the bottom of the antenna tower with a drilled hole and soldered pin, and drill the catwalk and pin it. I'll noodle in my brain awhile and see which method wins. I test fit the island and it needs some relieving to fit nicely over raised deck lugs. I don't want to force it and develop any undue stresses in this very complicated assembly.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Modernized Iowa Class versus Essex WWII Carrier Class
    By talshiar in forum Battleships Board
    Replies: 55
    Last Post: 30 Apr 18,, 11:24
  2. Trumpeter 1:32 Enhanced Avenger
    By Builder 2010 in forum Modelers Corner
    Replies: 135
    Last Post: 03 Jul 17,, 11:26
  3. USS Essex v USNS Yukon
    By Albany Rifles in forum Naval Warfare
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 21 Jun 12,, 14:41
  4. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01 Mar 10,, 07:10
  5. God-damn Trumpeter J-10 has been released in 72nd!
    By lulldapull in forum Modelers Corner
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11 Jan 05,, 05:22

Share this thread with friends:

Share this thread with friends:

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •