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Thread: Trumpeter 1:32 Enhanced Avenger

  1. #31
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    For added realism are you going to add oil to your tank and then have it leaked out of the engine drip by drip like they all do?

    Oh, since you are probably not a car guy like me I find all my wire at a good auto parts store down to 22 gauge.

  2. #32
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
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    I can have the oil leaking without actually filling the tank...

  3. #33
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    Builder 2010

    Did you ever see this build thread? Different US Navy aircraft and scale but same vintage. Some really great techniques. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/...ldiver/&page=1

  4. #34
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Builder 2010 View Post
    I can have the oil leaking without actually filling the tank...
    I'll get some pictures showing you how and where oil drips out of this engine along with other details on the fuselage/cowling that usually aren't present in models.

  5. #35
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
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    Please do! More pictures would be great!

    I just read Chuck's entire post. Thanks for flagging that for me. Okay. I consider myself a good modeler, probably better than most. And then there's Chuck. That plastic kit took two years and it shows. His level of detail, and perfection is another dimension beyond what I want to do, or even perceive. While I probably have most of the skills he demonstrates, I don't have the desire to take a model to that level. I probably got close on the Missouri, but even there, I could have gone even further into the abyss of AMS (Advanced Modeler's Syndrome). I did learn from Chuck's masterpiece. I am always learning.

    I loved his pipe work and how he didn't have any hesitation to remove kit details and make his own. I also liked that he broke and lost stuff and recovered beautifully. That's a person that I can respect and empathize with. I need to do a search and see what else he's been up to. I also like the level of work he does in a very modest space.

    Again, thanks!
    Last edited by Builder 2010; 19 Nov 16, at 17:06.

  6. #36
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    Engine cowling shots. You can see what sticks out of the cowling on both sides. Oil drips as the plane sits in last shot.
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  7. #37
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    Two large inside engine shots. Took about another 20 detail shots along the fuselage. When you move onto to that part of the build I'll get them help. They need to be resized from what these engine pictures are.
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  8. #38
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    No Build, but...

    First of all, those pictures are fantastic. Who knew there were all those waste tubes sticking out of the sides. It's not included in most models.

    The reason why I'm posting is Chuck introduced me to a company Albion Alloys from the U.K. They make precision metal shapes like K-S and Special Shapes, only much, much finer. He used this material in making his splendid a 1/32 Helldiver. He was able to build hydraulic and brake line fittings that were terrific. It is the perfect material to use on engine ignition rings to hold the spark plug wires.

    I bought two packs of the telescoping sampler from Sprue Brothers which has Albion's whole line in stock. These are 0.4, 6, 8 and 1mm. The small one's so small you can barely discern the hole. They have a much thinner wall thickness than K-S which is my big complaint about K-S small diameter tubes. These are spectacular.

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    Price wasn't out of sight a $6.00 a pack. It's an object that I didn't know existed unless you went into the world of stainless capiliary tubes. It also saves not having to use hypo needles for this purpose.

    I'm doing some serious plaster work on the model railroad and while that's curing on Wednesday and Thursday, I'll be back on the Avenger.

  9. #39
    Senior Contributor Builder 2010's Avatar
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    Avenger Engine Build 8

    Just got a few minutes to do one little thing; put the first Eduard PE "wiring" into the engine mount area behind the engine. I've been working full-tilt on finishing up plastering on the train layout and haven't done much ABM building. I have another intense week of railroad work and then they'll be a break for more TBM work.

    As usual, Eduard wiring is tricky since it's not round, but flat and behaves as such. I also cut the next piece off the fret and was attempting to install it on the other side, but it was time to quit, I was hungry and my hands were even more unsteady then normal so I put the part aside and went upstairs. In my mature status, I hope I've learned that when you try and do that "just one more thing" is usually when all hell breaks loose.

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    That box and wires should be painted some color or another. There's also a little folded PE box glued to the firewall on the left.

  10. #40
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    Firewall Work Continues

    Back again for a bit of work. Meanwhile the mountain project is moving apace and will be finished sometime next week. I do have other railroad projects comiing up that could be topics for FSM too.

    I tried to use the Eduard wiring harness for the port side, but as usual, the wires broke off when handling them so I went back to using small gauge copper strands with some wine-bottle foil strapping. It's not as elegant, but it works. After installation I painted them zinc chromate yellow based on some images that I saw.

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    After installing this I needed to find a way to terminate the oil line from the oil tank. I cobbled together something with a piece of styrene tube, styrene rod and a piece of hi-tech toothpick. The line was a piece of shrink tubing with a big i.d. so I need something that would spill the space without a lot of hassle, ergo the toothpick.

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    Here's what that pipe looks like with the painting on the starboard side.

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    The bomb bay floor had a large amount of deep ejection pin marks. I usually don't bother with fixing these, but I wanted to try usng my new Tamiya putty. It worked, sort of, since I probably have to use a second coat to make them dead flat, but I probaly won't. In reality, and let's get real here people, the only way to see those pin marks would be to pick up the model, turn it upside down and stare at the bomb bay, ignoring all the other parts on top of it, and focus on the bomb bay roof to see those divots. A) most people don't do that, and B) I wouldn't want anyone picking up the model for any reason, let alone to find ejection pin marks. I think this is an example of AMS (Advanced Modeler's Syndrome). While there's still more stuff that could be crammed into this firewall area, I'm going to cut it off at this point. The other details would be a nest of fuel lines and manifolds, but the big baffle plate makes access very difficult. On the TBF version, that area is all open, but not the TBM.

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    The last thing I did yesterday was add some sort of PE detail to the front of the floor. I don't know what this detail is, but it was two parts and five folds.

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  11. #41
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Builder 2010 View Post

    The last thing I did yesterday was add some sort of PE detail to the front of the floor. I don't know what this detail is, but it was two parts and five folds.

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    Trying to picture that part? Front of the floor, where? Front of the bomb bay section? I know the real front is the picture below. The two similar holes at the top, by the box, are for mounting a hydraulic piston laterally. The right side of the piston moved while the left was fixed. At the end a solid arm attached to each side of the piston and extending down to an attachment point on the doors. These arms were also attached to the two small mounting holes at the bottom of the green panel at each edge. That was a pivot point. Last, a round rod much like a strut for a car hood, would run from the middle of the left arm up to the attachment point of the right arm with the piston.
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  12. #42
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    Lower Firewall

    Here's that part in place on the fuze half. It's the lower firewall facing into the engine compartment.

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    So we'll to get a look from the other direction.

  13. #43
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    Then the lower half that slants backwards is the black area in my picture just above. That being the case then I wonder what the purpose of that photo-etched part that no one could ever see.
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  14. #44
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    Instrument Panel Work

    Apparently there's a lot of details in this model that no one will ever see, but it's still fun to build and we know it's there.

    The Trumpeter panel for this 1:32 ship is a three-part affair, with a clear outer panel, a film inner layer with instrument faces in clear, and a grey styrene back panel. Both the front and back panels have extra parts on them and they have lots of knobs and switches.

    The outer clear panel (and for the life of me I don't know why it's clear since the instrument faces are just holes, and the rest needs to be painted) has five PE levers/pull knobs attahched. The PE parts are very small so to cut them without losing them, I used an idea I found from Chuck Walas, who's a superior fine scale builder, where you cut the parts with the fret attached to masking take so nothing flies away. I measured their little stems and they were 0.021". I drilled the panel with this size drill and it made fastening them in much more secure than just expecting the CA to hold them there.

    After drilling the holes I looked, but couldn't find the darn panel. It disappeared. I searched the work space three times, swept the floor, check my pockets, etc. NOTHING! I had all the little parts cut and stuck to the masking, but no panel. Then I find it sitting direclty in front of me on the upper bench in front of my Panavise. Hiding in plain sight! See! There it is! I think I should resurface the workbench since all the stains make picking out parts sitting on it much more difficult. That surface is Homasote, which is excellent for pinning plans and parts down to hold for assembling.

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    I then painted this clear panel with the Tamiya Primer so it had some good tooth for the color coat. You can see the little levers on the lower left.

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    After airbrushing flat black on both panels I found my favorite fine-pont brush and was able to pick out all the knobs and things. I used red, white, silver and back painted flat black when necessary.

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    Some folks pick out the instrument rims with dry-brushed silver. I'm not going to do that since all of those aircraft instruments have black rims. I may pick them out with gloss black if I need some highlights.

    The insert instrument face film is photographically produced (it seems to be Kodalith or equivalent) which has jet black background, but is clear where the instrument graphics lie. They need to be white. So I painted the back with some Vallejo white in two coats

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    I put the front and isert togehter to see how they'll look together. The registration is not perfect yet, but it's just sitting.

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    I like the way it looks. None of this painting was called out in the instuctions. If the back panel was painted black, the instruments would have been obscured. I'm going to glue this 3-part sandwich together with MicroMark's Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) since the film will not respond to plastic cement and the PSA is very easy to control. The instrument don't need gloss faces since the film is glossy on that side.

    More work will come tomorrow.

  15. #45
    Defense ProfessionalSenior Contributor tbm3fan's Avatar
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    Actual panels. First a restored plane then the others my plane. My panel is 100% correct as far as gauges go. Took time to find them all especially the autopilot assembly which is darn near unobtanium.
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