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Thread: USS Marlin SST-2

  1. #16
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    I'm going to be moving over to the electronics portion at this point. The Water Tight Compartment (WTC) will hold and keep everything dry. The device here with the brass and copper is the Propel Backup Unit (PBU). It will be filled with the liquid from a Propel container used for airbrushes. The wires coming from the yellow solenoid will connect to a Fail Safe PCB (AFS). The tall threaded fitting is the fill and the other fitting connects to the bottom of the ballast tank which is in the WTC.

    Pic#1 - The WTC, what you see is the cover
    Pic#2 - All of the parts
    Pic#3 - Soldering everything up
    Pic#4 - Done with soldering
    Pic#5 - Mounted in position in front of the WTC near the bow

  2. #17
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    Wish this was built as fast as I am posting it.

    Here I am mounting the aft servos. The starboard servo will control the rudder. The port servo will control the aft dive planes.

    The bow planes will operate on their own channel and will control whether the boat is diving or surfacing. The aft planes will operate independently in order to keep the boat level at all times. The aft planes servo will be controlled by a device called the UPC-1 which detects the fore and aft levelness of the model. If the model is bow down, the UPC will pitch the stern planes so the trailing edge of the planes are up, forcing the stern down to keep the boat level. If the bow is up, the UPC & servo will put the trailing edge of the aft planes down which force the stern up to level the boat.

    Pic#1 - Empty area where the servos will mount
    Pic#2 - Mounting brackets installed and ready for the servos. The mounts were not part of the kit
    Pic#3 - Servos mounted in position. In the pictures, starboard is to the left
    Pic#4 - The brass rod bent to shape and mounted to the servos. They exit the WTC with a seal to keep water out of the WTC
    Pic#5 - Later on I will bend up the connecting rod that leads back to the rudder and dive plane

  3. #18
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    Here is the forward servo mounting which controls the forward dive planes.

    Pic#1 - Servo will be mounted where the upper arrow points to. In the end a control rod will exit the front of the WTC
    Pic#2 - Getting the curve of the surface down
    Pic#3 - Cut to fit
    Pic#4 - Painted and mounted
    Pic#5 - Servo mounted and control rod bent to shape to exit the WTC through a seal

  4. #19
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    And here the control rod linkage to the bow plane control horn is completed. You can see the PBU in position as well with a rubber band to hold it in it's mount.

    Is anyone following along? I see the views count going up a little but only had one comment so far. The other threads in this forum don't seem to have much activity.
    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02 Dec 12, at 07:40.

  5. #20
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    Yup! I'm following along... sorry for not commenting sooner. I have a bookmark that goes directly to my thread so I haven't backed up recently to see who else was posting. You build is beautiful, very precise, clean and well-thought out. Who makes the kit? How many channels will it ultimately be? What kind of sub is the Marllin? What kind of cements are you using? How do you keep water from incurring in the servo control rods? Aren't you sorry that you asked if anyone was watching. I find that a lot more people watch than comment.

  6. #21
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    Thanks for the compliments! A friend of mine started his own business years ago catering to the submarine guys, he has since sold everything. It was called Subtech. I had this sitting in my shop for years and just over a year ago started building it. They used the Marlin and the Mackerel in the 50's and 60's as small subs in the Carribean to hone the skills of the sub hunting vessels. It works on four channels, speed control, rudder, ballast tank and dive planes all contained in the water tight compartment (WTC). The area between the WTC and the hull is free flooding. The kit came with seals for any of the shafts or push rods exiting the WTC which keep the water out. Since the entire model is styrene, I just use the liquid styrene glue with a brush, and once in a while some CA. The real USS Marlin is on display in Omaha, her sister was scrapped. This kit was designed for new people to the hobby to get their feet wet with subs. But, I've gone overboard and detailed the hell out of it as close as I could to being realistic. I also deviated as I saw fit, who the hell would know anyway.

    Besides the radio functions, the sonar on the deck will slowly rotate as well as the radar on the sail but at a slightly faster speed. Maybe 10rpm and about 35 rpm or so. The following lights will work, forward mast, port and starboard running lights, stern light and a blinking skeg warning light. All are 3mm LED's. The skeg light will blink with a 555 timer circuit.

    There certainly seem to be more watchers than anything!

  7. #22
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    So I failed to keep updates going on this thread. The model is 99.8% complete and has been in the water. I'm not going to update progress here from where I left off, that can be seen on the RC Groups forum. I still have some details to add, some gadgets and electronics to update. The radio in the boat will be updated from 4 channels to 5+ so that I will have better control of the dive planes. In the video the aft planes dive the boat and are on a pitch controller. Diving the boat from aft causes the prop to breach. With the 5th channel and the forward planes working, I should not have the prop breaching.

    With that said, I have a new video that is a compilation of the model build from beginning to end. It is a 1/2 hour long so grab a cup of coffee or a beer and relax. Click on the YouTube button to watch in a larger window on YouTube.

    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 04 Oct 14, at 03:32.

  8. #23
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    That's a wonderful build. That's for sharing it with us. I looked at all the construction shots. You did a great job in all the perforations. I know that's very tedious work, but the results really pay off.

  9. #24
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    Thanks. I'm glad to see it at this point. I certainly know you know how tedious things can be.

  10. #25
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    On Sept 12th there was a gathering of model submariners at Submarine Base New London. I was there with my Marlin. We had the lake in the base from 10am until 10pm, we left about 6 due to weather. Posting a link to the video I made up. It's long, 46 minutes.

    http://www.youtube.com/embed/XJa2w9t...=1?&autoplay=1

  11. #26
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    I see that some are completely submerged without an antenna sticking out. How do they get radio reception? Is it difficult to track them when fully submerged? That titanic better watch out... there's some serious trouble sailing around nearby.

  12. #27
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    Everyone is on 75Mhz, the signal penetrates the water fine. It's clear treated water so easy to see them while under. You have to have an older 75Mhz radio to do this. The current ones on 2.4Ghz cannot be used for submarines as the signal will not penetrate the water at all.

  13. #28
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    We were back at the submarine base again. I borrowed a GoPro from a friend and mounted it on my fishing boat and followed around a few submarines. Here is the unedited video.

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/FuZlLk9H8os?hd=1

    Also mounted it on my fast electric powerboat KAAMA. Also unedited. Watch at 17:00, I hit a buoy, no damage. No submarines to see in this video.

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/neGWNG_UUrw?hd=1

    Fun, fun, fun!!!
    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 13 Sep 16, at 01:28.

  14. #29
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    Very cool. We now know what Ken_NJ looks like. Also, that boat definitely was fast! I think I've been at that little lake before. I had a NJ friend in the 70s and 80s who was big into RC boats. I built all of them for him, and we did sail some on a small lake like that one. Where is this lake?

  15. #30
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    The lake is called North Lake and it is at the north end of the submarine base in Groton. The sub base is north of General Dynamics Electric Boat where they build the subs. I clocked the fast electric boat at 45 mph.

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