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ModelWarships review
Model Shipwrights :: First Look Review: USS Missouri Detail Set by Timothy Powell
Correction on the price. I paid 140.00 US for the deluxe flyhawk set and 180.00 for the Lion Roar set. Hobbystuff depot shows Lion Roar set in stock and the non-deluxe version of the flyhawk set is in stock. The deluxe version is out of stock but keep checking as they usually get their stock replensished quicker than others..
Here are the reviews for each set if you're interested.
ModelWarships review
Model Shipwrights :: First Look Review: USS Missouri Detail Set by Timothy Powell
Thanks! They all have their strengths and weaknesses.
Builder 2010, I will be going out to Pearl Harbor in Feb to stay with my daughter and granddaughter for a few weeks. I definitly will be going to the Arizona memorial and the USS Missouri. I will be taking a ton of pictutres and was wondering if you'd be interested in some or of some certain area on the Missouri. I know alot has changed in appearence since WW2 but structurally should be same in most areas. If there is a particular area you'd be interested in let me know and I'll get some pictures of it.
I appreciate the offer. I don't think I need anything specific since I'm very near the point where I'm going to do the masting, radars and rigging, and that's a part that's changed a lot since the WWII era. But, I would be interested in seeing anything you have especially to see what shape it's in. I've been to the New Jersey several times and took pictures of it myself. Have fun! It sounds like a nice place to be in February.
Today's report:
I built the remaining 20mms. It went fairly quickly and in a little over 2 hours had built 8 more of them. Then I started back on gun installation. Got all the 40mms quads now on the boat and started adding more 20s, especially those in less exposed locations. Of course, as usual, something had to go wrong and challenge my psyche. A couple of the guns had pins that were slightly larger than others and didn't easily slip into their respective holes. As I was messing around trying to get them in, a finger dinged one of those delicate Mk 37s, and knocked the array off the pedestal. Not a problem. A little CA and some kicker and it was back on good as new. Then (and I don't know how) I touched it again. This time it was the side frame that sprung loose from the radar reflector. Luckily, that was all that happened. Neither the height finder on the side or the emitter in the center came off. It took two attempts to get the frame back on and aligned. I used CA and a broad tweezers to squeeze the frames together until the CA cured. This was touch and go, but it held and I went back to installing the guns. I'll have some pictures tomorrow. Happy MLK Day!
Last edited by Builder 2010; 16 Jan 12, at 04:58.
All the directors, 40mms and 20mms are now installed except for the four 20s that are in the tub that overhangs the main deck. I am sure that I'd catch those barrels and wreck them. I will install them near the end of the job along with the 5" gun houses and cats after the main rails are in place (for the same reason).
I mounted the thingy (official nautical term) on both sides of the after deck which now fills all the remaining holes in the model. I think it's actually a rack for additional boat booms... Rusty will correct me if I got that wrong. I'm using brass wire for the overboard boat booms after one of the plastic ones fell apart while attempting to sand off the sprue bump. I finished only one side and then ran out of time. I was working with my elder grandson working on his 1/32nd scale Trumpeter F-18E. It's a monster kit, not easy and he needs a lot of guidance. If you haven't built Trumpeter, they create added parts in places where traditional models would have one single piece.
I'm just about ready to start working on the masting and rigging. I'm noodling ways to form the SK2 dish. I may end up turning a domed male die on the lathe. I have a spherical turning attachment for my Taig Lathe. And then I'll create a female die using JB Weld or some other epoxy material. I've looked for things that have the correct radius, but haven't found anything yet.
Does anyone have any experience with this? If so, I'm open to suggestions.
I'm also going to try and use metal for the masts. From what I read, they give much more stiffness to the build especially to support the rigging.
So here's some beauty shots of the boat as of today. The cats are just sitting there for the picture. I know, I know, dangerous! I promise I'll be careful.
I really like how the aluminum foil mods I made on the 36" searchlights and how they reflect the flash. They really look terrific (IMHO).
The brass boat boom will be painted Navy Blue at the next session.
Got to work tomorrow so construction will recommence at the end of the week. The last steps will be putting on the main rails. I am sure if they were on now, they'd be flattened at least more than once.
Last edited by Builder 2010; 17 Jan 12, at 01:27.
That looks soooooo good. You have done a great job on that. I hope mine will turn out just as nice as yours. I've decided to paint mine in the MS 32/22D.....wish me luck on that one..............I also recieved the pontos models wood deck stained 20B..looks really good and will save some painting I hope. Just not sure how the paint will affect the wood when doing the camo pattern....we"ll see
Magnificent! That is the most detailed 1:350 model I have ever imagined - she seems so real --I am enjoying your build immensely. I will miss watching it coming together when it is finished, but the excitement of waiting to see the finished work balences that nicely.
I hope to get a high resolution picture(s) for my archives - I would like to use your work as an aid to my paintings and drawings. I love the busy feel of the deck fixtures and equipment.
"If your plan is for one year, plant rice. If your plan is for ten years, plant trees.
If your plan is for one hundred years, educate children."
Since he Builder said he will build a new model after he is done with this, I have a suggestion.
Get a tripod for the camera. Pick a place for the tripod. Mark it (in case you need the tripod for something else).
Make HR photos from same POV on weekly/daily basis
No such thing as a good tax - Churchill
To make mistakes is human. To blame someone else for your mistake, is strategic.
I really appreciate the compliments. The problem wtith meas. 32/22 is that on the MO it goes up over the decks so it covers all horizontal surfaces. It even goes under some overhangs. This was just too much for me to contemplate. If you model the Iowa, the camo was only on vertical surfaces so it would be easier.
Quick update: Just started working on brass versions of the mast assemblies. Not only are they stronger and stiffer, the can be soldered. Also, the mast on the rear funnel is already broken in two and it's still attached to the sprue. I'll take some picture as I move along.
The carbide drills came today... just in time, from DrillBitsUnlimited.com. I bought a 50 piece set of carbides from #74 to #78 (10 of each size) for $29.00 and free shipping. That's a good price for solid carbide. These are sizes I use a lot of since it covers the sizes of brass wire I use for a lot of detailing. Apparently, the drills are used in the printed circuit manufacturing process and are pulled before they get too dull. They work great on brass and plastic. I find them much sharper than the High Speed Steel micro drills. I'm going to use them on the mast construction.
Still waiting for thoughts about the SK2 screen...
Last edited by Builder 2010; 18 Jan 12, at 00:56.
If I had bought the wood decks, I wouldn't have painted them either.
The problem with doing Iowa in her "Dazzle" scheme is that there are no painting diagrams for MS 32/1b. Cannot be found on the Navy History site, NavSource or Shipcamouflage. So painting the decks would be a SWAG.
I like your mold press idea for the SK-2. You could cheat. Assemble the frame then use something like bridal veil material for the screen. Or practice the suggested Eudward method with some other fine screen, copper or alum spigot screen, until you feel comfortable doing the PE piece.
When I get ready to break out this kit, I think I'll send you all my PE frets to bend
Its called Tourist Season. So why can't we shoot them?
It'll cost ya. I never do custom bending for free.
Masting: The real mast scales to about 25" diam. I have 1/16" brass rod that scales to almost 22. I've drawn them up to scale and you really can't tell there's a difference. I have no way to turn small diameter to length parts (that swiss-type screw machine problem again), so I'm thinking of going with the 0.062 stock. It's a #49 drill. You can buy drill rod in wire drill sizes, but I'm not looking forward to drilling or soldering it. What do you all think?
I'd use the brass - whats 3" in 1:350 scale? Invisible... I wouldn't use hard steel drill rod, it sounds dangerous to the builder and very fragile.Originally Posted by Builder 2010
If your plan is for one hundred years, educate children."
That's kinda what I've been thinking, but needed a confidence boost. There's a lot of stuff going on with those masts. They're going to be another little work of art like the MK 37s. I like those challenges. With my new carbide drills I've feel empowered to do microscopic things.
Tying the stays to the masts is tricky. I'm thinking about what I need to put onto the mast to serve as an attachment point. Tricky but fun (keep saying that... tricky but fun, tricky but fun...)
Last edited by Builder 2010; 18 Jan 12, at 02:48.
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