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  • Trumpeter 1:32 Enhanced Avenger

    After such a nice reception about my B-17 build I decided to get into action building this Trumpeter kit.


    I was wrong. I thought that this kit wouldn't be started for a while since I'm scheduled to build another large structure for a commission project, but since that hasn't kicked off, I decided to pull this big beauty off the shelf and get into it. While I'm doing this I'm building a large plaster mountain for the railroad and while various things are drying/hardening, I can work on this model.


    This model was a gift from a parent whose son I had in my Grandpop's Model Building Workshop that I ran a few years back. A close friend of hers father died and left a treasure trove of un-built Trumpeter kits. They offered them to her and she offered some to me. Included was this Avenger, a 1:32 Super Hornet which my grandson proudly built, and two Trumpeter 1:350 carriers (Hornet and Essex). Grandson is building the Hornet and I'm going to build the Essex.


    This Avenger is a pretty big model with lots of details, much of which will be invisible (like the B-17) unless I open access panels to show it off, which I may do. The kit has some PE, but I added to it with two Eduard sets: Engine Details, and an Exterior set. I also ordered, but haven't received their mask set. Unfortunately, to order directly from Eduard the order needs to be over $20 and the masks are just under $10. I would buy a set for the Essex, but they don't offer it. They do offere two sets for the Hornet, but that would be up to my grandson if he wanted to mess around with it, and he's pretty much glued everything up. I have the capability to do all the masking by hand, but it's very time consuming.


    I'm going to do the plane in the all-gloss sea blue scheme, instead of the three-tone, white, navy and light blue, not because it's any better, but I'm just a bit lazy and the three-tone scheme offers a lot of opportunity to screw up.


    The build starts with the Wright R-2600 accessory case and engine baffle plate. This model has a beautifully detailed engine and with the Eduard stuff it could be a show-stopper like those 1:48 radials I built for the B-17. This entire subassembly will be buried in the airframe unless I go with the aforementioned access panels. As any of you who followed my previous build you know that I'm not very big in heavy weathering. I want to build a well-cared for build or even as it appears in the various museums, instead of a battle-weary bucket of bolts.





    This whole deal will get airbrushed, semi-gloss black. Between this part and the engine baffle engine mount cradle. I think the outside of the baffle gets sea blue, but the inside is probably zinc chromate green. I'm going check some references on this coloring before proceeding.

  • #2
    Buy from my Go to store. Sprue Brothers. I have had nothing but great service from them

    http://store.spruebrothers.com/searc...1&brand=Eduard

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Gun. Gave it a look. They don't have the Avenger masks shown. Can you special order from them. The problem with the masks is this. Stephens International is the wholesaler for all the Eduard PE and Brassin resin, but they don't carry the masks. That's another wholesaler, and apparently they're not very responsive. I like getting stuff through my LHS. They don't overcharge and I don't have to pay shipping.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Builder 2010 View Post
        Thanks Gun. Gave it a look. They don't have the Avenger masks shown.
        This isn't the one?

        http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/edujx032.htm


        Can you special order from them. The problem with the masks is this. Stephens International is the wholesaler for all the Eduard PE and Brassin resin, but they don't carry the masks. That's another wholesaler, and apparently they're not very responsive.
        You cannot special order but you can have them E-mail you when they get an item you want back in stock. My experience is that they seem to restock if they get a request. I've never gone more than 3-4 days from putting in an e-mail me request and them having it on hand. It may be that I'm just lucky that way or they pay attention to customer demand/request


        I like getting stuff through my LHS. They don't overcharge and I don't have to pay shipping.
        Understand. My nearest LHS is in Pensacola. 90 odd miles away. I would love to support a local shop. Don't have one though.

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        • #5
          Yup! That's the one. How come I didn't find it. I searched Eduard 1:32 and it wasn't there. I'm going to order it from them.

          Ordered! $3.82 shipping.

          Thanks!
          Last edited by Builder 2010; 08 Nov 16,, 05:30.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Gun Grape View Post
            Understand. My nearest LHS is in Pensacola. 90 odd miles away. I would love to support a local shop. Don't have one though.
            Unfortunately, LHS's are a dying breed; I used to have a pretty good LHS not too far from where I live, and it is (was?) actually in the city I work in, so I can usually pop over there on my lunch break if I know what I need. I say "used to" because over the last year or so my LHS has cut WAAAY back on what they stock for modelers: their paint selection is practically non-existent, especially their Model Master line, for some reason, and they don't really buy any new kits; lately, they've been picking up consignment models and estate sale lots. Sometimes, that's pretty cool, because you can get some pretty good kits that are either OOP, or normally way out of your price range (for example, I picked up THREE 80's-vintage Monogram/Revell A-6E's/EA-6B's last month for $20 each, about half of what they're going for on eBay; and last week I got my hands on a Tamiya M1A2 SEP Abrams with TUSK II for $50; it was retailing for $75-80). More recently, they picked up a bunch of old Revell space ship kits from the '60's and '70's, including the original Tranquility Base lunar landing module model from 1969 (my very first model, actually!), that huge 1/144 Revell Saturn V from 1968, and a Russian Vostok in 1/100 scale. In any case, I have had to make the tough decision to (gasp!) start going to my local Hobby Lobby instead to get the supplies I need, even though their selection is limited.

            So, GG, this is my long-winded way of saying that going to an LHS is still fun but, unfortunately, they are dying off; I wouldn't be too surprised if that LHS in Pensacola didn't exist anymore in a year or two.

            Builder: I'll be following this one, too (and, no, I'm NOT done with my 1/48th B-17G - yet!); I've been impressed with the detail and quality of the large-scale Trumpeter kits, even though most of them are way out of my price range (but maybe one will show up as a consignment at my LHS!). In any case, keep up the good work; my son's working on a 1/48th Avenger, so he'll be watching, too!
            "There is never enough time to do or say all the things that we would wish. The thing is to try to do as much as you can in the time that you have. Remember Scrooge, time is short, and suddenly, you're not there any more." -Ghost of Christmas Present, Scrooge

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            • #7
              I'll be watching this build also. I do have three Accurate Miniature models of the Avenger of course. They go along with another 70 models, mostly Navy, I have collected but have not yet built. Always have wanted to so I enjoy these builds. However, with a full size model ship, a full size model Avenger, ten cars and a 7 year old one uses spare time to just crash.

              Comment


              • #8
                It really is quite remarkable that Scale Reproductions is so good. Brian Bunger, the owner, is a serious plastic modeler himself and is active in the IPMS, last year he hired an old friend Marty, who is even more into plastic than Brian. As a result, Marty completely reorganized that department. Their paint racks (Testers, Tamiya, Vallejo and Accurate Paint) are fully stocked. Any new model that appears in adds in Fine Scale Modeling, appears on their shelves at the same time. It's exactly the way it should be. This is just indicative of the rest of the store. Their RC department is huge and fully stocked as is their HO/N gauge train department. They have a working slot car track, a RC Flight simulator for kids to work, and (up until recently) a large outdoor RC off-road car track. That track was closed when the Kroger Market in the shopping center needed the land for their expansion project. They then put it indoors in a big industrial building, and just recently lost the lease on that and needs to find another place. Needless to say, I felt guilty when I had to buy those masks on-line. I do buy some stuff on line, but not kits, paints or building materials.

                I'm happy that you guys will be watching. It makes spending the writing time worthwhile. While I do this for my own satisfaction to some degree, I really like the interchange of ideas and the fact that I'm helping other modeler's perfect their skills and know how. One a trainer, always a trainer.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Avenger Engine Build 2

                  Well then, Toshi, you'll have to keep me on track.

                  First thing I did today was install the front motor mount ring into the baffle plate (don't know what else to call it since it's not really the fire wall since that's behind the engine mounts, especially since the carburetor is on the rear side of this piece. I think it just acts as a guide to steer air flow through the cowl flaps.) I painted both interior green. I masked the outside since I didn't want to have to paint the blue over another color if I didn't have to. The accessory case was airbrushed semi-gloss black.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  I noticed 2 large conduits coming into the ignition ring from the rear of the engine. They are the ignition feeds from the two magnetos on the accessory case. I wanted to add this wire in the front and also at the magnetos.

                  Here's a picture that was available on the web which shows all the activity at the accessory case.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  The mag wire is the large white one that's heading directly left into the engine. The wire comes into the mag's side with a 90° fitting. There's a lead on each side feeding that side of the ignition ring.

                  To make the connection, I flattened the end of a piece of 1/32 brass rod, punched and drilled it 0.032" and then soldered another piece of the same rod into the hole. After some bending and fussing I fit the wires and put them through holes in the baffle.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  After gluing the accessory drive I CA's the mag leads and painted them chrome silver.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  There's a ton of other wires and pipes running around the engine's rear. I don't know how much of this I'm going to model, but if I do, I'm going to open up and access panel so it's visible.

                  I then started building the engines themselves with painting the blocks and heads flat aluminum. I'm looking forward to building this engine. I find engines some of the most enjoyable aspects of modeling.

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                  Tomorrow I'll keep going on the engines.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Builder 2010 View Post
                    It really is quite remarkable that Scale Reproductions is so good. Brian Bunger, the owner, is a serious plastic modeler himself and is active in the IPMS, last year he hired an old friend Marty, who is even more into plastic than Brian. As a result, Marty completely reorganized that department. Their paint racks (Testers, Tamiya, Vallejo and Accurate Paint) are fully stocked. Any new model that appears in adds in Fine Scale Modeling, appears on their shelves at the same time. It's exactly the way it should be. This is just indicative of the rest of the store. Their RC department is huge and fully stocked as is their HO/N gauge train department. They have a working slot car track, a RC Flight simulator for kids to work, and (up until recently) a large outdoor RC off-road car track. That track was closed when the Kroger Market in the shopping center needed the land for their expansion project. They then put it indoors in a big industrial building, and just recently lost the lease on that and needs to find another place. Needless to say, I felt guilty when I had to buy those masks on-line. I do buy some stuff on line, but not kits, paints or building materials.
                    I wish MY LHS was that well-stocked!

                    My personal opinion is that the owner is either a.) getting ready to retire, so he's selling everything off so he doesn't have to spend his retirement money on restocking the store, or b.) he's getting ready to sell the store (and maybe retiring), so he doesn't want to spend anymore money on restocking the store; either way, I'm screwed. In any case, it's also very obvious that the store makes most of it's money off of the RC stuff, which is always well-stocked, and they have twice as many people working in the RC department as the rest of the store put together.

                    Maybe I'll get lucky, and somebody who really likes plastic models will buy the place . . .
                    "There is never enough time to do or say all the things that we would wish. The thing is to try to do as much as you can in the time that you have. Remember Scrooge, time is short, and suddenly, you're not there any more." -Ghost of Christmas Present, Scrooge

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                    • #11
                      A look at a TBM engine in situ.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        Great picture. I did some research about Zinc Chromate. It's not really a color, but a kind of paint and the actual colored varied all over the place from bright yellow to very green. So I'm going to stick to the with interior green for now since the zinc chromate yellow I have is very yellow; much more than the paint in this picture.

                        I also noticed another interesting detail: the ring of rubber shock mounts that tie the engine to the engine mount. Clearly they are there to control the tongue of the rotating mass, and no models I've seen have this detail. Looks like the valve covers are black and not silver as in the instructions.

                        The Eduard engine set contains some simulated wiring harnesses that will add to the business, but there's still a lot more if I want to add it. Also, it's good to see how the panels were removed on this plane so I can attempt to duplicate that. I need to build the intake ducts for carb air and oil cooler.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yes, zinc chromate can vary in color since it really isn't a color but a chemical composition. I can spray cans of zinc chromate on the insides of car doors and it is greenish yellow. I can also find zinc chromate on the bulkheads of the Hornet and it is yellow. I know models say to use interior green for these planes especially if built by Eastern while zinc chromate for planes built by Grumman. Now my TBM is an Eastern built plane so you can see the original colors here. One shot from were the radio man would sit when using the ART-13. I suspect a respray. The cockpit color would show some sun fade but I also removed some paint with a plastic scraper. Then two shots of framing under wing panels which I know for a fact were never resprayed over the years.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            I read all about "zinc chromate" on the IPMS Stockholm website; as tbm said, zinc chromate is just the chemical composition, it has nothing to do with the actual color, which is why there is "Zinc Chromate Yellow", and "Zinc Chromate Green". Apparently, raw zinc chromate actually had a yellowish color with just a hint of green, but some manufacturers (and/or the manufacturing plant itself) would add "lamp black" to the mixture to give it more UV resistance, and "more durability in high-traffic areas"; so you could find zinc chromate, especially during the War years, that ran the gamut from pale yellow to dark green, and everything in between. That's one of the advantages to modeling War-year aircraft: you could paint it almost any color, and it would be "correct". And I assume that "Interior Green" is just zinc chromate with a LOT of "lamp black" added to the mix.

                            Camouflage & Markings: Interior Colours of US Aircraft, 1941-45 Part I
                            "There is never enough time to do or say all the things that we would wish. The thing is to try to do as much as you can in the time that you have. Remember Scrooge, time is short, and suddenly, you're not there any more." -Ghost of Christmas Present, Scrooge

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Avenger Engine Build 3

                              Great information guys! I was alternating today between model RR mountain work and the Avenger. It's just a joy to have two really engaging activities going at once. Unlike our National Elections, what goes on in my basement world is entirely under my control.

                              Now onto today's work. I hand painted burnt iron on the lower cylinder portions. I then used one of my newly acquired super-small carbide drills. This drill is a #88. That's not found in any micro-drill sets and is so small as to be a needle. And yet somehow they're able to grind flutes into it AND it's solid carbide. After measuring the Eduard PE spark plug wires at 0.008" so I used this 0.009" drill to open up spark plug holes so the PE would have a place to land. The front cylinder bank had a boss that made finding the plug opening easy, but the rear bank didn't have anything since Trumpeter didn't expect people to put spark plug wires... just what were they thinking. An engine this big must have wiring. What's really amazing is I drilled 14 holes and didn't break the darn thing. That blew me away since I generally break these carbide drills by looking at them the wrong way.

                              Click image for larger version

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                              While doing this I was painting and plastering tunnel portal wing walls on the mountain project. I got them into position nicely. Then on the ABM, I prepared and painted the crankcase piece with the pushrod tubes. Unlike the Eduard B-17 motors, these are all on one part and that greatly simplifies assembly. Of course I did break one off when attempting to deburr the part. It was a clean break. I drilled the nub with a 0.028" drill just enough to let the broken part have something to hold to and CA'd it back in place. I painted the casing flat aluminum, the tubes semi-gloss black, the upper part first flat black and then dry-brush silver to simulate the clamps. These pieces are not glued in place yet.

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                              TBM3fam's pic is terrific in that it not only shows the airframe structure, but it shows the coloration of the valve boxes and covers, the shape of the oil cooler and carb intake trunks, and it showed those interesting torque shock mounts that attach each rear cylinder to the engine mount. It also shows more plumbing which I will study closely and it shows how the panels remove and the flange sizes. The Eduard engine set has some PE wire harnesses to add to the complexity, but there's some more major tubing that could be cobbled together. Since I'm planning on leaving access panels open, doing it up may be worth the effort.

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