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Gun Grape
02 Jan 16,, 01:21
To get my mojo back I picked this up.

First plane that I've built since the late 70s. I'm going to do the Army Blue and yellow scheme.

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Stitch
02 Jan 16,, 06:11
Sweet! That should look nice when you're done! And I'd go with the blue & yellow scheme, also; it looks MUCH better than that all-blue scheme.

BTW, haven't forgot about you asking about the E-100 I have been working on for three (!) years; I'm ALMOST done, I just need to finish the two little SS dudes in their camo uniforms, and then I'll be done. I may post some pictures of it before then, anyway, though.

Gun Grape
02 Jan 16,, 07:54
There are actually 2 reasons I went with the Blue scheme.

First is, IIRC, Yellow is a pain to get good even coverage.

The second is, if I decide that I like building these flying things, this caught my eye and would tie in nicely

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Stitch
03 Jan 16,, 01:43
First is, IIRC, Yellow is a pain to get good even coverage.

Yes, it is! The only color worse than yellow, in that respect, is white.

I don't know how you were planning on painting it (airbrush? regular brush? rattle can?), but I'm still stuck in the 20th century, and use a brush and rattle can for my models. Use flats whenever possible, as they tend to cover much better than glosses; the glosses tend to "pull" away from edges and corners, so you always end up with inconsistent coverage (especially with light colors, like white and yellow). Plus, the flat paint gives more "grip" for the succeeding coats of paint (or clear gloss).

You can always go back and hit the flat paint with clear gloss, if you need to decal it.

BTW, you really can't go wrong with a Revell kit; they've come a long way since I started building their kits back in the '60's, and some of their more recent offerings are on par with the more expensive Hasegawa and Tamiya kits.

Gun Grape
10 Jan 16,, 04:48
did a little today. Raining outside and our persistent red tide has put a halt to fishing.

took care of the cockpit, internal framework and did a test with the paint to see if I wanted to do a silver base coat before the colors. The real airplane had alum paint sprayed over the canvas prior to painting.

Not sure how I'm gonna paint it. I have a detail airbrush that works great for 1/350 boats. But this thing is huge, in comparison. I may rattle can it.

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Zad Fnark
20 Jan 16,, 17:46
I've got that kit sitting around.

No clue what colors to put on it, as she seemed to wear about a million different set of markings.

DonBelt
21 Jan 16,, 05:39
Don't know if it helps, but here are a few pictures of Collings Foundation's PT-17:
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Gun Grape
15 Feb 16,, 01:30
On to the model at hand. From where we left off, I closed the cockpit up, did a little filling and sanding then shot a base coat of chrome on her.

After that brush painted the fuselage with Vallejo Dark Blue. First time using Vallejo model color. I'm lovin them. Good coverage, levels out smooth, no brush marks. Didn't know acrylic paint had come this far.

Next tried to put down a coat of MM Chrome Yellow. Horrible results. Tried spraying it. Looked like crap. Tried brushing it. Looked like crap with streaks. Ended up buying a rattle can of OSHA Yellow (Same color, different name). Adequate for this build. Now I' waiting for the paint to dry. Do a little final assembly (Stick the engine and wings on) then on to rigging.

My picture taking skills are worse than my model building skills. From my cell phone

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Dazed
15 Feb 16,, 18:37
Enamels and acrylics don't mix esp if they are tacky. Acrylics are a little more environmentally friendly. Depending on what you are using smell better. I have found you can do anything with acrylics that you can be done with enamels. The same rules apply mix well, clean the surfaces before application, and burnish your mask to prevent bleed. Here a link: http://www.craigcentral.com/models/thinning.asp

Looking forward to seeing your completed build.

Gun Grape
16 Feb 16,, 01:56
never had problems mixing the two. Just remember you can spray acrylics over enamel but not the other way.

The only paint I was using previously was Polly Scale. Wish/hope Vallejo comes out with a naval line. Especially since Polly Scale naval colors is no more. And I'm running low on Deck Blue

I think next yellow plane I will use a base coat of flat white. That seems to be the current "Best way" on the model forums I read. Since they took the lead and chromium (damn Safety Nazis) yellow has been a hard color to do right. Very translucent.

I like this little bird so much, I got another one.

This may sound funny, but the biggest problem I'm having is dealing with the size of the parts. They are huge. All of my tools are sized for 1/350 scale and I'm use to handling that size. This thing is huge. Its like putting 2 hulls together

Builder 2010
16 Feb 16,, 15:49
Keep the faith. It looks good to me so far.

I like Tamiya paints best since they thin with isopropyl alcohol 91% which can be had in great big bottles for very little $$$. I use Vallejo also and generally like it. I used Model Tech which is now own by Badger Air Brush. It can be sprayed without thinning directly from their bottles which conveniently have the same threads as the Badger suction cap. Yellow is best sprayed over a first coat of white. I have a terrible time with yellow. I didn't like Polly Scale at all. I liked Floquil, but can't use it in the house since it was solvent based. I just bought a couple of bottles of the new line of acetone based RR colors, but I don't like how it brush paints, and again, unless I can build the spray booth, I'm not spraying acetone based stuff in the basement.

Suggestion: Use EZ Line for the rigging. It's bought from Berkshire Junction and they have a website at http://www.berkshirejunction.com

While student teaching at Flint, Michigan in 1967, I built the Sterling Stearman balsa control-line gas model. I put an Enya 35 in it. It looked great. Brought it home and on Memorial Day in a park in front of all our friend, I attempted to fly it. "Attempted" is the operative word in that sentence. I really didn't know the first thing about control line. My buddy was holding the plane and I gave it "Up" elevator and told him to let go. The plane, which was probably over-powered, took off straight up in the air and then turned in a dive directly towards me. The lines came slack, I had no control, I dropped the handle and got out of the way as the plane re-kitted itself on the spot where I was previously standing. It was embarrassing, humiliating, and I never wanted to fly anything ever again. I tried RC once and wasn't much better. Some of us are builders and some of use are drivers. I'm of the former.

What kind of camera are you using?

Stitch
16 Feb 16,, 23:49
never had problems mixing the two. Just remember you can spray acrylics over enamel but not the other way.

The only paint I was using previously was Polly Scale. Wish/hope Vallejo comes out with a naval line. Especially since Polly Scale naval colors is no more. And I'm running low on Deck Blue

I think next yellow plane I will use a base coat of flat white. That seems to be the current "Best way" on the model forums I read. Since they took the lead and chromium (damn Safety Nazis) yellow has been a hard color to do right. Very translucent.

I like this little bird so much, I got another one.

This may sound funny, but the biggest problem I'm having is dealing with the size of the parts. They are huge. All of my tools are sized for 1/350 scale and I'm use to handling that size. This thing is huge. Its like putting 2 hulls together

Yes, the first coat should be a flat white, or even a good flat primer coat would work, too. After that, you can do the gloss yellow (although I'd probably use flat yellow, then a couple of coats of gloss clear for the decals).

Unfortunately, I only have experience with the Testors Model Master line of paints, in particular their enamels, so I can't comment on other brands (except for Pactra, which doesn't exist anymore). My LHS carries the Tamiya line of paints also but, so far, I haven't been impressed; it seems like their paints are too "toylike" for my tastes.

I have the opposite problem you do; I think anything smaller than 1/48 scale is TINY! Of course, being 52 with crappy eyesight doesn't help.

BTW, there's another build for this exact same model over at the Fine Scale Modeler forum, thought you might find it interesting: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/169641.aspx

Gun Grape
17 Feb 16,, 01:05
I have the opposite problem you do; I think anything smaller than 1/48 scale is TINY! Of course, being 52 with crappy eyesight doesn't help.



No excuse. I'm 53 with crappy eyesight :>)

Builder 2010
17 Feb 16,, 01:27
Hey, I'm 70 with crappy eyesight, but I walk around with a magnifying hood on all the time. My nearsightedness started disappearing about 10 years ago and has been replaced with farsightedness. My long-distance prescription keeps getting weaker and my close vision (which used to be at about 1" focal distance) keeps getting worse more towards magnifying glasses. Just get a good magnifier and lots of good lighting.

Gun Grape
17 Feb 16,, 05:45
Keep the faith. It looks good to me so far.

I like Tamiya paints best since they thin with isopropyl alcohol 91% which can be had in great big bottles for very little $$$. I use Vallejo also and generally like it. I used Model Tech which is now own by Badger Air Brush. It can be sprayed without thinning directly from their bottles which conveniently have the same threads as the Badger suction cap. Yellow is best sprayed over a first coat of white. I have a terrible time with yellow. I didn't like Polly Scale at all. I liked Floquil, but can't use it in the house since it was solvent based. I just bought a couple of bottles of the new line of acetone based RR colors, but I don't like how it brush paints, and again, unless I can build the spray booth, I'm not spraying acetone based stuff in the basement.

Suggestion: Use EZ Line for the rigging. It's bought from Berkshire Junction and they have a website at http://www.berkshirejunction.com



What kind of camera are you using?

I was being lazy and used the camera off my old Samsung MP3 player.

As for rigging, I'm doing a 3 way approach to see which one I like, and which gives the best results.

I've used EZ line (and doll hair) for ship rigging. Though I would try different things this time.

Between the struts, I used that old standby Sewing thread. For some reason I didn't run it through beeswax before I put it on the model. Oh yea, because I haven't done a biplane or large scale sailing ship since the 70s. And my "recollecting" was about 5 minutes slower than my "Applying"

On the tail I used .014 (15lb leader) stainless steel wire. Did a single run through all 7 holes I drilled.

For the wings I plan to try .020 stainless rod. Cut to individual lengths. The single run just wasn't there.

I will post pictures of the results later this week. Most of my modeling time happens between Fri-Sun. If the fish aren't biting

Builder 2010
17 Feb 16,, 05:55
Where do you get the stainless steel rod? That sounds interesting.

Gun Grape
17 Feb 16,, 06:02
Where do you get the stainless steel rod? That sounds interesting.

Its from K&S Engineering. They call it music wire.

http://ksmetals.com/17.html

I think I picked it up at Hobby Lobby

Gun Grape
20 Feb 16,, 04:19
Using the thread for rigging between the struts

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Using fishing leader for the tail rigging

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Gun Grape
20 Feb 16,, 04:34
What I did today

Decals are a bit thick. Micro Sol worked real good though.

If you plan on building one of these. Don't use the N numbers on the tail. Its the civilian registration for the plane that Revell copied.

Other things to note. Part 71(backseat panel in cockpit) should not be used. Its for a post war acrobatic plane. The Army bird gets the wooden prop.

I added the red fire extinguisher decal to the Army plane. Looking at old pictured, some had it some didn't. I though it gave a bit of color.

All thats left is adding the top wing, rigging the struts and adding the prop

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Gun Grape
22 Feb 16,, 00:34
The stainless steel rod is the way to go for rigging. After fiddling round a bit, figured out how to make it simple. Got about half way done. Then ran out of rod. And Hobby lobby doesn't open on Sunday.

All thats left is to finish the rigging and do a bit of touch up. Then she is done

Final Pictures.

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tbm3fan
22 Feb 16,, 03:56
I am curious if you add any weathering to your planes or just build them clean?

Gun Grape
22 Feb 16,, 04:35
I am curious if you add any weathering to your planes or just build them clean?

I'll clean this up once I finish the rigging.

I'm not a big fan of weathering models. Unless it is in a diorama. I also think that the current fad of making things dirty as hell is unrealistic.

This is the first plane I've built since 1980

Stitch
22 Feb 16,, 05:51
GG, I'm with you on the weathering thing, which is why I tend to stick to subjects that don't require much weathering (like aircraft). Probably because I'm not very good at it! I have weathered models in the past, but it's been a very long time, and I'm sure I've lost the touch. I'll just stick to what I know . . .

Gun Grape
01 Apr 16,, 23:57
Update

In my quest to find what I like for airplane rigging, I built another Stearman.

Its a really fun, and quick building plane. This would be a great plane to build in 1/32 scale. The aftermarket companies could go hogwild. 4 different engines were used. 3 or 4 different props.

A model screaming to be detailed.

This time I did it in a all yellow scheme. Sprayed Model Master white primer on everything. Then hit it with the rattle can yellow I used on the first bird. End results. I have one more plane that I need to use yellow on (F-16 fro first pics in thread). Then I will never do big patches of yellow again.

This time I used 6lb (0.007in) fly tying tippet line. Drilled much smaller holes. I think this looks better than the other ways I tried. After everything was finished ran a brush with Vallejo Natural steel over the lines.

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Builder 2010
02 Apr 16,, 00:51
I think you've done a great job on both of them. The Stearman is a really pretty aircraft... very balanced in appearance. I tend to weather things that look like they're in use, not abuse. Narrow gauge folks and some of the armor modelers like to weather stuff to the point of ready for the scrap yard. I weather roofs because that's where the weather actually hits first. Military aircraft in today's armed services are pretty well maintained especially since most of them aren't on a war footing other than F-18s doing the job in the Mid-East. It's essential for modern aircraft to keep them clean so leaks can be detected easily. Modern electronics doesn't mix well with weathering. Most museum models are never weathered. As you said, if you're making a diorama or vignette, then you weather according to the rest of the display. Regarding my trains, I'm probably going to start weathering some of my rolling stock. None of it will ever be sold for a profit so I might as well start making it look a little more real.